V-man, this is a pretty good tutorial on the autolube pump, helped me to understand them (well sorta )

Autolube tutorial

I personally, think the rear turn signals are at more of a threat for breaking off in a spill and they're fairly easy to remove. I restored CT1 and CT2 for both of my daughters to ride. When we take them to our property for some light off road riding I remove them off the CT2 (the CT1 doesn't have turn signals). On a side note, I was mostly opposed to adding an AT to my fleet for various reasons. Your enthusiasm actually changed my mind and I've started looking for one for my wife.

Save the original signals and replace them with reasonably priced rubber stalk ones....  I like the little Baja Designs ones.  Good quality and on a DT125 you won't even need to change bulbs since you're already 12v.

Thanks all for your input!


Airborne:

Copied/pasted the link to my "Docs 'n Info" folder!



ADGUY:

I've decided that I WILL remove the originals for safe keeping. Now I'm down to deciding whether or not to replace with repros/etc.

AT's: If your wife is short in the britches like mine (5'4"), she will really like the lower seat height. As for e-starts: They are not robust, so the armature brushes need to be in good order, the engine mechanically good, and the carb fresh, tuned, and functioning well. Best starts were had with idle 1700 RPM or above. Typically, I would kick start it on the cold start to commence our ride, then after that she would e-start the rest of the day. Worked great.


MARKT:

And that is now the decision: Whether to replace the originals with repros or rubber ducky mounted signals. I've decided the originals will be removed for safe keeping.

My inclination at this point is to just do without signals as I do on the rest of my vinduro bikes. No biggie. I have other things for it I'll be spending money on anyway, so it's not like I won't have opportunity to spend on it!


V-man

Probably a smart choice...  a pair used to be right at $30 just a few years ago...  harder to find now that California pretty much banned the dual sport conversions that Baja Designs was famous for...  cheapest  price I could find was $57.95 a pair.  Nearly doubled.  But they are good quality, flex great, and don't break easy. 

Indicators - maybe some cheapo, universal, rubber stemmed ones would do the job? The front ones can be mounted to the fork ears/headlight bucket instead of the handlebars.

Edit - I posted this before going to page 3 of the thread!  . Still, at least it was the same suggestion as others! 

UPDATE:

So the signals are pulled and safely in a box. The harness connections are taped with colored plastic tape to ease reassembly. Also removed the buddy pegs. Will be leaving in a few to try to match up the metric threads down at True Value's metric bins.

Tank's been drained, pulled, and petcock removed. Seller was correct: The mesh screen protecting the reserve inlet was toast. This happened a LONG time ago and the petcock reserve inlet has filled with sediment. SO... a new petcock is now on order along with a new air filter element. (Foam was in good shape, but the seam glue had let go.)

There was enough sediment in the remaining fuel (that wouldn't drain through the clogged reserve line) that I've decided the tank is going to the radiator shop to get a boil-out. Aside from the very bottom of the tank, it's very clean. I'll leave it to the radiator shop to determine if a sealing will be in order... maybe.

Also jacked up the rear wheel off the lift table to check rear wheel bearings. Zero side play and the wheel spins smoothly and freely. Rear spokes checked and adjusted as needed. I will be pulling the rear wheel so I can poke a finger in the bearing race so I can rotate them and "feel" them. If they're smooth they'll be repacked and reused. If not, I'll be replacing them.

SO, the process has begun on another bike, BUT, there are no evil mechanical or electrical issues to find/address. Mainly running gear items such as tank/petcock, fluids, bearings, spokes/etc.

All fer now!

V-man

I have put an inline fuel filter on mine.. I believe a few others have too.. Easy enough to see if there is sediment and time to change…
Sneezles61

Have moved to the front. I've got good news/bad news:

The good news: Wheel bearings smooth and free. Spokes required lots adjusting, but now they're great. Wheel is true.

The bad news: I feel a notch at center on the steering sweep, and tight to the right and tight to the left. Suspect the 39 years that it sat have done a number on the steering races. Drat. I detest replacing steering races and bearings... but now's the time to do it if that's what I find upon disassembly.

SO... time to get out the parts diagram to see what type of steering bearings it uses. I suspect it will be a set of races w/caged round bearings. (Doubtful it's tapered rollers.)

EDIT: Nope. Loose balls, two sizes. 1/4" dia. x 19 on the bottom, 3/16" dia. x 22 up top.

All fer now!

V-man

I think you will get a surprise, don't quote me but I believe they are individual ball bearings.