Look at pictures I posted.  First thing you MUST do is carefully thread in screw and get pin engaged into groove on clutch arm shaft.  Then as you thread in screw farther the clutch arm should raise and lower as screw is threaded in a few more turns.  Then you restrict turning to 1/2 turn as that will give you full range of adjustment. 

This often requires pulling up and down slightly on shaft to get it at right height pin to go into groove.  Threading screw in until it gently bottoms and then moving shaft up and down with one had while trying to gently turn screw in usually makes short work of it.  It takes a little coordination. 

You may need to loosen clutch pressure plate as sometimes you can't pull up high enough because wedge on lower end of shaft is hitting pushrod and not coming up far enough for pin to engage groove. 

I think I've done it i will re check against what you say
im also not getting a spark as I checked the plug And 
It was wet, took plug out and popped in on cylinder head 
And still no spark, I know its a new plug and ignition as
I just brought them....    

Any ideas?

Are your points clean and adjusted properly? Grounds all grounded and wires not frayed? I tend to just start checking upstream through the ignition system until I find what isn't working.

I agree.  9.8 times out of ten the stock points magneto just needs points cleaned and timing set.  Can't remember how many years it's been since I've come across a bad coil. 

Probably a dozen people on forum just this year replaced coil and points and who knows what all and finally got spark when they reinstalled the ORIGINAL parts. 

My advice to those that simply must buy something is get an analog ohmmeter with an Rx1 scale.  A few simple tests with the meter almost always finds the issue in 5 minutes...  and in my experience, 9 times out of 10 it's simply point contacts need to be cleaned correctly.  Second most common is wire rubbed through.  And occasionally a bad condenser.  I might just be lucky?

MarkT nailed it 

Here's a reasonably priced analog (swinging needle) meter that has an Rx1 scale for resistance. (Many of the low priced meters don't...  Rx10 or Rx1k is not the same thing!)

Ebay meter link  

Some digital meters will work but many jump all over the place and are impossible to get a reliable reading.  Especially the cheaper ones.

I will buy that meter, forgive me for saying this but what 
do I do with it?? I have brought new points and condenser 
But you guys advise clean up the old ones.... 
Really appreciate you guys wish I didn't live in UK,
Your sound bunch and glad im in here, will take some pictures
when I get it off.... going to buy that meter too

Firstly are new points fitted so no wires are trapped to earth at the points terminal. Wipe some fine sandpaper through to remove any surface stuff. Give them a little gap when open & report back. Could run the black mag loom wire straight to the coil up top to bypass the loom. Maybe worry about accurate timing after that. Make sure mag nut is very tight 'after' you've found spark incase you need to remove it once or twice to go deeper. There's a bit of danger in looking for spark with plug resting on the head when motor has a belly full of fuel. Can ignite if it throws it out the plug hole--if ya have spark.

   
so its off, the screw on picture 3 was 3/4 rounded before
So literally rounded completely before I had anything on it force wise...
Can I clean it all in situ or not, any ideas on how to remove 
screw.. which parts should I clean??
 

Ignition point contacts (didn't need to take it apart to do it but that's okay)

Do your best with the rest.