Ever since rebuilding the carb on the DT360 it has had a couple small leaks. One is coming from the aluminum crush washer on the bowl banjo bolt which I can find easy enough. Its also leaking from the top of the bowl, a very slow seepage coming from the new bowl gasket. I've got the screws about as tight as I can without risking stripping them out and the gasket surfaces on the carb are very clean without any obvious score marks. When I pulled the gasket it looked kinda wet and saturated, like it was absorbing the fuel. Has anyone had luck with a particular gasket or rebuild kit?

O.E.M. From Yamaha or a certified Mikuni dealer is your best bet. Also verify the mating surface on the bowl is completely flat, can put a piece of very fine emery cloth on a piece of glass and run the bowl across it a few times, any uneven spots will show by the sanding marks, sometimes the bowls get warped from uneven or over tightening of the bowl screws. You have to remove the brass nozzle from the bowl to do this.

also might want to double check float height 

The float pins stick out above the level of the bowl edge as well. Do they just pull out? I didn't want to tug on them and risk bending them or scoring them up.

I'm pretty sure the floats are ok. I checked them for buoyancy and they were good. The float valve that came with the rebuild caused the float lever to not sit parallel with the bowl, I think it is just marginally longer than the stock one. I swapped the OEM back in and the arm now stays totally level. Neither one however caused the fuel to dump out the overflow nozzle at the bottom.

float pin slides in and out, might need a nudge with a pointy something, but most of the time I end up tipping the carb and it falls onto the floor because its contained by the sides of the bowl.

I was referring to checking the float height which is easily adjusted per Service Manual in tech library.  If float is allowing bowl to fill too high then you will leak gas no mater how tight you make the bowl screws, which don't need to be too tight, but snugged up evenly IMO.

I have a DT360 and fried it initially because I was too dumb to check the jets against spec...while you have it apart and if you have not done so already, I would check the needle, needle jet, main jet and pilot jet against what's specified in manual and make sure that they all have the Mikuni square inside a square symbol (told aftermarket jets are trash, gaskets okay)  because as I found out the hard way that a lot can change in 50 years.  The markings are very small, I use a small set of binoculars backwards as a microscope.  

Yes, Mikuni gasket.

I would not try to remove float guide pins from float bowl

OK, so the aluminum crush washer is proving to be tricky to find also. I measured it at 11mm ID and 16mm OD. Has anyone had any luck finding a suitable replacement anywhere convenient?

I was referring to the float pivot pin and not suggesting to mess with guide pins, I totally agree that would be a bad idea. 

I think I got aluminum crush washer for bowl from a Chinese kit along with bowl gasket and o rings, way cheaper to go this route and toss brass into trash than buy washers gaskets etc from partzilla or an eBay hustler IMO 

Only one of my Yamaha Enduro’s have givin me persistent problems with seepage from the carburetor. That was the 71’ AT1-C. Mark will be able to explain to you how to raise the float level so that it is not filling up quite so much. I always get confused with the carburetor being upside down whether it needs to be closer to 2 o’clock position or 4 o’clock?

The original gaskets that were used probably were asbestos and they were extremely thick. Many of the new gaskets today are not quite as thick. I had found some good ones that I had good luck with the 125 cc e start carburetor was always a problem. It also sounds like you are over tightening things. It takes a certain finesse to know how much pressure to put on these gaskets as well as the banjo O-ring washer where the main jet resides.

a

What a pain this thing is! I got an OEM Yamaha rubber bowl gasket, rather than the paper gasket that came in the rebuild kit. Still seeping. I went and bent the tang upward on the float arm so that the floats would contact it sooner and now it seeps AND pours out the overflow!

Anyone know what # O ring the bottom of the main nozzle uses? The new one that came in the kit looks a bit rough after having taken the carb apart 20 times chasing this down.