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'75 DT250-B No lights at all are working

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Replied by spudmanDT250 on topic '75 DT250-B No lights at all are working

LOL MarkT.  You think YOU'RE confused easily!  The problem was, I don't think I did ANYTHING other than wait 24 hours until the next day to try to diagnose the issue and lo & behold...I had lights (dim)!  Perhaps my brand new fully charged battery developed a bit more juice overnight.

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01 Aug 2021 15:52 #21

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Replied by spudmanDT250 on topic '75 DT250-B No lights at all are working

Well, I've been a bit busy with other tasks on the bike for the past few days...but finally got back to the wiring/incomplete lighting issue today.  Needless to say, if what appears in the attached photo is any indication of what I'll find the further I dig into this bike, I'm in for a lot of "repairs."  This is off the wiring connector that comes from the main 4-wire lead coming out from the stator.  Sheesh....previous dude must have never heard of solder, heat-shrink tubing, etc.  Anyway...I suppose I should get back to diagnosing.  Oh....on a somewhat unrelated question....is the flywheel nut a regular or left-hand thread?  Thought I better ask before I crank it on even tighter than it likely already is.

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03 Aug 2021 15:59 #22

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Replied by MarkT on topic '75 DT250-B No lights at all are working

Righty-tighty, Lefty-loosey.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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03 Aug 2021 16:48 #23

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Replied by spudmanDT250 on topic '75 DT250-B No lights at all are working

Thanks MarkT !
03 Aug 2021 17:07 #24

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Replied by MarkT on topic '75 DT250-B No lights at all are working

Someone might prove me wrong but I can't think of any left hand threads on these Enduros except the 27mm x 1.0 threads for the flywheel puller.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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03 Aug 2021 17:12 #25

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Replied by Gr8uncleal on topic '75 DT250-B No lights at all are working

Wow, that is a mess! 

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Just in case you didn't already know, you can remove the spade connectors from the white plastic block by pushing down on the small tang on each with something like a watchmaker's flat head screwdriver.

This might make any repairs that you do both easier and neater. You can buy new spade connectors quite cheaply, but just make sure that they are the ones with the tangs on.
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03 Aug 2021 23:54 #26

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Replied by spudmanDT250 on topic '75 DT250-B No lights at all are working

Thanks GR8UNCLEAL.  Yeah...I knew those spade connectors came out, and it certainly would have been a bit easier soldering yesterday with the plug connector off....but I'll be darned if I could get them to release.  I had the jeweler's screwdriver set and was trying to push, down (and up) on that tang, but I wasn't 100% sure of which way the wire & spade would come out of the plug. Do I pull out from the spade end or the wire end?  It seemed like no matter what I tried, they wouldn't release.  In any event, I got everything cleaned up, soldered and shrink tube wrapped...so I'm on to the next step of tracing and testing more connections today.  Pretty sure my regulator will be arriving today too, so I'll be working mostly in the headlight bucket.  I really like the idea of mounting the regulator on top of the fender bracket, so I'll fashion a plate to do that as well.
04 Aug 2021 05:59 #27

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Replied by Gr8uncleal on topic '75 DT250-B No lights at all are working

They come out from the back.

Learning how to get them out is a bit like learning to ride your first bicycle, or to reverse with a trailer attached 

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 - bloody impossible to start with, but then the technique just clicks. 

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04 Aug 2021 06:28 #28

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Replied by spudmanDT250 on topic '75 DT250-B No lights at all are working

So....just to make sure I understand you correctly, they pull out from the "wire end" of the connector then?  And do you slip the jeweler's screwdriver in from that same end  as you're pulling the wire out or does the screwdriver go in from the spade end to release the tab?  I've done so many different styles of these over the years, and they all seemed to release differently.  Thanks!
04 Aug 2021 08:11 #29

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Replied by Gr8uncleal on topic '75 DT250-B No lights at all are working

Small screwdriver in from the front, lever down on the tang and pull the wire and connector out from the back. If the tangs aren't covered in crud, you should be able to see them.

I ended up buying one of those packs of 50 to 80 different sizes and types of connector removers from fleabay and some of those are thin enough to press the tang down and go out through the hole as well. There are also items in there that will remove the slightly later Molex style connectors.
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Last edit: 04 Aug 2021 08:27 by Gr8uncleal.
04 Aug 2021 08:26 #30

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