Should the distance between the outside of the rim and the front fork tube be equal distance on a DT360? Mine isn't.
The bike isn't handling properly and I noticed the distance wasn't equal.  I used parts from 2 bikes to assemble mine and I'm concerned possibly that parts were not correct.  

Should be equal but its more than likely not the reason for bad handling. Tell us more to describe what its doing. Are both wheels vertical as a twisted swinging arm can do weird things if the rear wheel isn't vertical & same goes for the front although it'd have to be bent axle lugs & thats not going to happen. But bent forks could cause a slight lean over one way if not bent in the same direction. If this is the bike with re-chromed & straightened forks from another post then ignore my woffling except for the rear wheel & arm comment. Run a straight long rod along both wheels or a tight string to see how they line up. Tyre pressures can make quite a difference when cornering & too soft it'll want to go straight ahead. Just my ideas. More info please.

My DT360 tracks nicely and is entirely stock and complete. 

dimensions stack up with L side gap larger than R, just how it is


  My DT360 tracks nicely and is entirely stock and complete. 

dimensions stack up with L side gap larger than R, just how it is


 

It is steering like a bike with bad head bearings. Constant correction required. I've only ridden this bike short distances around the neighborhood as I installed a 12V Vape system and haven't got the lights working yet.
I was convinced it was the head bearings, so when I saw the difference in rim to fork measurement, I immediately jumped on that as the problem. It wasn't. The fork on one side had at some time during reassembly slipped 5mm up in the steering head without me noticing. I adjusted correctly and the difference went away for the most part.
Thanks for the suggestions.

Ok, then i'm also convinced its head bearings. Nothing worse than notchy bearings. If you've already replaced then then that stuffs that theory except be 100% sure you have 19 size 1/4 in the lower & 22 size 3/16 top. If ya try to squeeze an extra one in then you're in trouble. You'd get away with minus one but not plus one as no room.

Not notch y, just constant correction. I'll ride it in the next few days and let you know if there are additional issues.

Could be the tires, could be characteristic of the bike.  Depending on what you're used to riding it may seem strange and unusual.

I would check that the chassis pivots and wheel bearings are all in good condition and make sure the wheels aren't seriously bent or out of true.  As long as the bike is mechanically sound you're good to go.

Swingarm pivot?

Constant correction still sounds up the front end in my opinion. Ok they're not notchy but "if new" cup & cones fitted & one extra ball added in top--bottom--or in both then it won't feel notchy & just bind up. I've seen odd things happen like fitting the 3/16 balls in the bottom &1/4 in the top. then bottom races probably contact each other & bind or the bottom triple touches the bottom of the steering head the lower cup fits in. then the weight of the bike is all on that.
With the bike sitting on a box suspended you might not feel any of this like when its on the ground bearing weight.

They should be okay. I put new bushings in the swing arm when I started this restoration and I don't recall any problems with the installation. I got sick of fooling with this bike for a while and moved onto another project. I'll try to ride it in the next few days and see if setting the fork tubes back to the same position helped. I'm ready to be done with it.