Before I started taking the bike apart I rode a couple of miles around the farm to make sure motor was running good. The bike ran good but sucked the old air filter into the reed valves, so I took the bolts out of the manifold and removed the old filter parts and thought I had tighted all 4 bolts up. I found one bolt that was not tight so I think that may be my problem with the idle.
I did look at my tail /brake light bulb, I think it is good. Where would the brake light ground?
Thanks again

yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/wiring-diag...ram/viewdocument/242

Here’s a link to the wiring schematic. Looks to me to ground back into the harness since the rear fender is basically rubber mounted. I could be wrong, and if I am, then it’s just a bunch spaghetti.

On the carb deal, I had a similar thing happen. Took carb out to clean and somewhere I shaved off a bit of the o-ring on the flange. I didn’t see it so when I put it back together and started it up, I had a climbing idle. Back apart and I found it. Had to rob an old one from my second bike as I had no new ones. That’s when you tell the wife it’s a good thing you have multiple bikes/parts bikes/parts stashes to feed the problem everyone here develops.

I'm not picking, trust me...I'm not picking...but I had to snicker a little at saying you "Finished" your DT360.

We're never really "finished..." there is always something to adjust, improve, tweak...something! The only time you are truly Finished, is when you sell it. So, DON'T! Keep improving your great looking 360!

I did install a voltage regulator and a new o ring in carb.
I thought about the word Finished after I made the post, I probably should have posted it is back together.

WOW nice bike!
i have same model, under 3K mi, sat for over 40 years.
Every seal was leaking or hard, working my way front to back replacing all wheel bearings/seals, original tires/tubes, etc. First ride the chassis was tight and smooth but the idle crazy and the very cleaned up carb air bleed screw inconsequential which led me to believe that i had another air bleed, namely the crank seals!
I just replaced those and the clutch at the same time, as well as the clutch bellcrank, shifter and kickstarter seals...once the clutch cover gasket finally arrives i will report back on idle, but i do think this is the issue since spraying oil around carb mount, etc, while running didn't influence idel.

On the crank seals, i used a 3/32 drill with grease to drill two diametrically opposed holes in the seal and used 2 greased up 3" drywall screws to jack the deal out, it was a piece of cake. Since the seal goes in "backwards" with the spring loaded side facing trans oil and air on magneto side, driving the deals in was much harder since your trying to drive on an edge vs. a surface. I went to home depot with an old seal and found a PVC fitting (top side in pic against seal) to press (actually bang pretty hard) new seal that was well-lubed up including OD. Using a socket will likely cause the edge to fold or buckle because the force required to install well-oiled seal was pretty high. Obviously if cases are split and on a bench much easier but that's no my situation or yours.

I will let you know how my idle is once i get case closed up and go for a spin!

on another topic - is the fork brace stock? I too have a '74 DT360A and it doesn't have but botton fork tubes do have threaded bosses.

Thanks and good luck,
Martin

Thanks for the info on installing seals, I am hoping I don't have to do that. I did find a air leak and hope that was my problem, I will ride again today. My bike has always been cranked at least every 3 months. I set my odometer 14 years ago and I had put 275 miles on it during that time but rode it every few months around farm. I am hoping that kept the seal ok. I did all seals, bearing, bushings and brakes on bike but very little motor work, so far. Good luck on your build.

Pipe looks alot like this Bassani
It has a giant circlip holding the end cap on

I used the stock silencer since it is not a spark arrestor.
It gave up the bottom end for a pipe hit around 6000rpm, revved over 9000 . A real screamer

yamahopper that is the chamber. Thanks

Not sure what you mean?

Not sure what you mean?