Please let's not let this build come down to a place to sit..
Has anyone got a lead on seat pans for sale? 74 dt250.

There is one on eBay, 260$ wow

If you have anything to start with... often can be repaired. I've seen some pretty bad pans brought back to life.

Maybe someone like Rick C. would be willing to repair yours if you have one?

I may have what you need/want. Let me run out to the storage unit and check today.
If I do, it will be cheap, as I wanted to try the Lab Metal repair method that RickC has written about before here. I did, and it works wonders. My brother welded a few cracks, I did the Lab Metal thing which worked well, and then I painted it. If it's the right bike, I'll shoot some pics and post them here.

I have a good one, no cracks, rust or welds, pivots are good. it's for a '70. I think they are the same? It's $75+the ride

What is lab metal? Is this like an epoxy?

Not 100% sure, I think '74 & '75 seat pans are unique to that year
One of the vendors here is KDI they have "most" enduro seat pans and covers at a reasonable price

Lab Metal info at the end.

Here is my method I do:
1) Hit the top of the seat pan with a hand wire brush to get the crude off.
2) on the bottom of the pan, strip all the paint off. Lightly hit it with a hand wire brush as well.
3) soak it in Phosphoric Acid for a couple of hours or longer* ( * Do NOT use muriatic acid or you will be left with nothing ! Always follow the safety instructions on the acid container. Acid is NASTY stuff ! ) ALWAYS CHECK SOAKING PAN IN ACID !!!!
4) after rinsing and drying, I usually take a hammer and chisel to the caked on rust ugliness that is left over. Believe me..you will see it.
Lightly hit it with a wire wheel , but make it shine. Take a gander at it , it may need more soaking. ( I do this step 3-4 times. )
If you have pockets of rust anywhere, I hit it with a glob of Navel Jelly over night. then back to soaking in the acid. No need to remove the Navel Jelly, let the acid do the work. Rinse, and wire brush again.
5) what you have left over will scare the tar outta you. Yeah?

What you are left with is a seriously ugly hunk of metal with no rust and major possibilities.
Now...To CUT or not to Cut ! Big debate here.
Some people like to put fiberglass over the pan.
I like to replace it with metal. Lab metal that is. I use blue tape for the bottom side so it makes a flush to the bottom with minimal sanding or grinding on the pretty side. Slop on a bunch on the top and fill the holes. I should say if it needs welding , do it before Lab Metal work. Don't braze, or solder...it will crack out and not work. Weld it.
Any questions?
Here is the link to Caswell.
www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/lab-metal.html







Sorry for being so long winded.
Rick C.

A better link...

www.caswellplating.com/lab-metal-12-oz-1...t-solvent-12-oz.html

This, according to partzilla's year interchange, is almost true:
www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/498-247...22c68501d0cf33029c7e
The pan fits the 74 DT250A and DT360A, and also the 76 DT250C and DT400C.

And KDI does not list a pan for 74's, just the foam and seat covers, if I'm looking at Dave's website correctly:
www.kdirepros.com/category-s/100.htm

This might explain why a good seat for these years/bikes is $250 on eBay.

Mine was misrepresented on eBay as fitting 74-76 DT250's, DT360's, and DT400's. I have a 74 DT250A, but it's got a great seat and pan. But I offered $15 [and he shipped it for another $15] because I wanted to try the Lab Metal method of restoration that RickC uses.
Here's what I bought:



You can read Rick's thread about how to use the Lab Metal and what it does. I can tell you it is fairly easy to work with, and the results are impressive.

with flash. The surface is rough: it's painted with Rustoleum Hammered rattle can, and I did very little to finalize the surface, as it goes against the foam and will never be seen again.

Natural light.
underside:

I have not wire wheeled or painted this side. You may be able to see the gray Lab Metal through some of the holes.

The PO tried to remove five of the six hinge and clasp bolts and broke all 5 off. (Why can't some guys learn and leave well enough alone after one or two?) I tried the left hand drill trick, and it did not work on any of the five broken bolts. You would need to either thread the holes, or drill them out a size larger and epoxy or weld new nuts on the inside, maybe of a size larger?

The pan is roughly 22.5" long; it appears to have all the appropriate bends, bumps, angles, and holes that the my DT250A has, so I am confident that it is a DT250A seat pan.

I'd part with it for $30 plus shipping; that's what I have in it.