1976 400, its not that they are vague, its probably more to do with differences in maybe UK and US models or just a numpty fitting it, maybe they can update them if this proves to be confusion over wiring, its a learning curve

I have to pat Marcus on the back, Ive sent him numerous questions, meter readings etc today and his replies have been swift and patient.

You have the same bike I have so that makes me really interested in your outcome! Good to know that your questions are getting answered promptly, that was a complaint I had noticed from another person in another thread, I didn't put too much on that since I know they are a small company and it's possible that some or all of them were on vacation, or holiday as they say

I can't complain and hopefully Mr Vegetable trousers can confirm about the two wires, then I can try again and report back to you

Thank you!!!

Powerdynamo or as its now called Vape system here, installed several years ago on a DT 360. Bought it as reviews on it was good plus I believe a member on here helped in the development.
It looks high quality and works as should. Always starts right up with never a kickback although that may be due in part to a proper working decompressor. Multiple pages of directions were included. I had trouble understanding no keyway being needed that probably added the most time researching how that works.
This talk of water getting in concerned me so pulled off cover as it has been ridden through water and mud holes as well as in the rain. There is a gasket around the cover but apparently water has been in, some rust on flywheel but stater plate still shining aluminum, will seal around wiring connections and give flyweight a painting Electronics are mounted up under gas tank with this system.

Thank you for the feedback Dave!

Yes, the wiring on DT looms seems to vary a bit, mine is an official UK model, I have the official UK parts book and even then there are slight differences between that wiring diagram and my bike which is completely original...

The green wire from the Rex's stator is earth and should connect to the combined black and black/white wire on the loom. That allows the ignition switch and the kill switch to stop the engine.

The yellow wire from Rex's stator is providing current to the yellow wire in the loom for the headlamp direct lighting. BUT it also has to provide current to the WHITE wire. You will need to add a "spur" to that yellow wire to connect to the white wire.
This photo shows how I had to alter mine by taking the existing spur provided by Rex's for the regulator and adding a female block connector tab part way up it and inserting that into the correct part of the block so it lined up with the white wire in the loom. I have a kit for making up block connectors so I had one of the litle tagsI could use.
Here is a pic:

Now I have a steady regulated current to the battery topping out at 14.7v
Hope that helps.
Adam.

Hi Adam,
Thank you so much for the help, it is just what I needed and is much appreciated, mine is a US import and I did expect a few differences when i started rebuilding it, but to have someone already sussed it out is champion, I'm sure the info will be helpful to others . I'll get this sorted today then I can get back to the oil leak on my old Triumph

Thanks again, Keith

Hi ,
Changed the wiring as per your instructions and jobs a good un, steady 14.6v to the battery when engine running, I'm so very grateful Adam and for the help and info on this forum.

Hope this helps you too AirborneSilva.

Thanks again Keith

Glad to help.
Its a good product as long as:
1. You get sent the correct stator! But, mistakes happen...
2. You appreciate that the wiring connections MIGHT need a little fiddling with. Thats just due to slight model/year/market variations. The wiring on these is about as simple as they get so its not hard to work it out.