First up, connect brown wire to X terminal and brown/white to L terminal, leaving the P vacant to start with. If all indicators and warning light work, leave it at that.

Thanks Al. 

If that works, I have an idea that the yamaha specific one is a conventional three pin flasher can with the P pin intentionally left disconnected internally.

I think I may introduce a 5a fuse in line between battery and bike before I test it.

If it has a "P", it is incorrect.  About ten years ago I found a webpage that explained the different terminal types...  if I remember correctly, the three pin with the ground (earth) terminal type was actually made to be a "universal" type that could be used on both negative and positive earth electrical systems. 

The Japanese started out copying a lot of English designs in the 1950's and 60's...  The Mikuni is an Amal knockoff...  Early Nissan (Datsun) engines were copies of the BMC "A" and "B" series engines.  So it's seems plausible that the early Yamaha flashers might be based on an old design suitable for positive earth systems.

Koreans copied the Japanese (primarily Mitsubishi) in the early Hyundai.  And the copies the Chinese make now are everywhere.  Some of the copies were/are under license, others not.  Eventually The Japanese and Koreans started to create their own designs which are very good...  Seeing the same from the Chinese...  notably the new CFMOTO 450SS motorcycle produced by a Chinese company known in the past for making (poor) copies has now come into their own with this new model. 

Oddly, the layout of the terminal blades matches the modern "P" terminal layout exactly.  The 6v three pin type with the "E" instead of the "P" terminal seems to be long obsolete. 

Unfortunately some modern flashers have no terminal markings at all...  every one I've bought from sellers who claim it's correct and with hopes of it being correct has always been the "P" type.  

Perhaps your luck will be better than mine.  Another clue is some sellers include a Manufacturer Part Number and possibly a brand in the listing.for the actual part or as an equivalent part reference... Google search can usually come up with specs.  (Some have listed the Yamaha part numbers and they have always been wrong type, unless NOS).  If a non-Yamaha reference number is given, it's always been the "P" type in my searches. 

P.S.  Be aware the original fuse may blow if it is a "P" type, those are not as common to find as they used to be.   

 

Just saw your note on using a different fuse that was posted while I was writing my essay

Smart man.

Just came back to admit i got my sums wrong.  In fact i did not even bother with them.  I jusy guessed. 
I need 7.5A fuse not 5A.
After reviewing the prospect while taking a pee, I reviewed the situation and did the calc....

You might also try the 21w bulbs in one side and see if they flash with original flasher?  That little extra load might make a difference.

I posted what I think is a useful thread when I converted to LED indicators on my CT1-C, but the thread doesn't load correctly.
MarkT could you have a look and see if the thread can be salvaged, as I think it's useful for anyone thinking of swapping to LEDs, cheers.
www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/...14993-led-indicators

Thread pulls up fine for me?

There's an old ebay link with a "not rendering" error due to a refused connection by ebay in the first post but that's not a forum issue

www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/...d-indicators?start=0

Thanks Pete and Mark.

Thread pulls up fine for me, but no narrative with Pete's first post due to the "not rendering" issue.

Mark, would Pete's text be readable if you removed the link? If Pete can email the ebay link to me, I seem to have no problem copying and pasting these.

I edited it and left as much as I could...  there were some bad photo links too that I had to delete.