Those 3 look in with a chance.
Walmart looks good [better pics sell haha].
Could plug your connections straight in but then again maybe leave as is & change the plugs on your loom to match so you'll have nice new connections incase they've fizzed & not in good condittion.
It's unusual to have a rectifier go open line without evidence of bulging or corrosion like a terminal is about to drop off--just saying.

Double checked my results on my 1st DR650, blown motor, but all else good. Also got bad results in diode mode. Double checked the settings per manual on multimeter and they looked correct. Switched to a different setting(still in diode mode) and got expected numbers. Checked the RT3 and it shows .575 which appears to be good, although connections have minor corrosion. I'm an idiot, but learning, lol. Last time troubleshooting electronics was using dwell tachometer in the '70s.

Any of those would in theory work.  They all look like cheap knock offs so no idea on quality?

I'd probably go for an OEM Yamaha from Yamaha or a NOS one like this.

*https://www.ebay.com/itm/325429854863

P.S.  Red goes to + and white goes to ~


 

Problem appears to have been poor battery ground and bad battery. Appeared to hold a charge, but failed load test. With ground fixed and new battery lights are working. When new battery was first installed turn signals worked, but no flashing with engine off. With engine running they didn't work at all until engine was running a couple minutes, so it may have been the new battery wasn't fully charged. Turn signals behaved better as I got more miles on, at end of ride they'd flash slowly under 2500 rpm, at the start they would stay on steady under 2500, no flashing at all. Think it could be related to battery charging taking place above 2500. Replaced sealed beam with a reflector assembly from Octane  lighting which uses a replaceable H4 bulb. Many thanks to the people on this awesome forum who provided guidance on this journey!