Ive noticed on ebay,an RT1 ignition barrel,would this fit the RT3,i ve had a look and they seem to be different part numbers.Just wondering if they are interchanable,it also comes with no key,can this be obtained via the number on the barrel,cheers in advance

Probably, but not easily.

You would need to fabricate a mounting bracket.

You would need to make a new 10 wire mini loom - the wires from the RT3 are much longer and connect under the tank, not the headlight.

Looking at images of both on CMSNL, the number and colours of the wires look the same. However, you will need to study the wiring diagrams and switch legends for both bikes to see if the internal switch connections and external wire functions are the same.

Personally, I'd try and find the correct switch.

A new key can be cut using the number on top of the barrel and year of bike as a reference. Some companies offer this service on fleabay, a bike dealer can order one, or a local master locksmith should be able to do it for you. Cost is usually between £7 and £10.

Cheers for the info GR8uncleal.Ive checked the ignition switch once more on Ebay and it looked to me to be incorrectly listed for an RT1,as im sure its from  RT3 with the housing shape and lentgh of wires, ill add pictures when it arrives.

Good news. 

One of my "soapbox" points on buying parts is to make sure that you know what the part you are after looks like. Many parts are listed incorrectly, though usually not deliberately. CMSNL, this forum, fleabay and internet library pictures in general are great for this - they help show a) what a part looks like and b) common incorrect listings.

Having this info means that a) much less chance of buying the wrong part and b) you might pick up a bargain! 

The RT2 and RT3 frame/engine numbers start RT1, so it's easy to see how someone might advertise parts as being for a RT1.

This is the ignition barrel,although i cannot find any numbers/markings for key cutting purposes.Any ideas?

The switch cover/weather shield is missing in the photo.
Normally the key number is stamped on it.
Options?
You could test fit keys until you find one that works, but where would you get every possible key to try? Who might have a bunch of Yamaha keys?

There may be a person out there who has specialized in Yamaha locks and keys. They could open up the lock mechanism and figure out which one it uses or reconfigure it to another code using different "tumblers". But how whould you find that person, if they even exist?

You could disassemble the lock cylinder and remove the "tumblers" so that it would not lock at all, but would turn with anything you stuck in it as a key. Not safe, but if you are ultra-low budget (or just plain cheap) it would work.

You could buy a different assembly that works. Again, this might require money and time.


Just some random thoughts.....


 

A master locksmith with an interest in motorbikes might be able to help out.

I am lucky enough to have one within driving distance (he is in Amesbury, UK) and he and his colleague managed to cut new keys for two Yamaha round style locking petrol caps, with no real starting point of reference.

Funnily enough, I might have just purchased an ignition switch in a similar condition to yours from DK (twowheelspares). My recently acquired DT3 has no switch at all, so I wanted something cheap to get me going with the electrics part of the resto, with a view to buying something better as and when it came along.

I'll give a further update once I've had a look at mine (still in the post).

I followed DEETs suggestion on my CT2. Dissembled the lock, pulled the tumblers and springs (taped them to a card in order in case I need to put back in) and ground down an old key to fit the slot. Works perfectly since I never park the bike anywhere but my garage.(plus no one would know that anything put in the slot would work without trying it themselves)
alnarv

Thanks for the information guys,will try a locksmith initially,if this doesnt work then ill go down the CHEAP route.Funilly enough GR8uncleal i also purchashed this from DK motorcycles,and they even have reed valves for RT1s.

Were they the ones misdescribing it then?! 

Hopefully no-one will buy a reed valve for a RT1 - it was the RT2 and RT3 that had them fitted.

On a more serious note, that is why we have to be really careful and know our onions before buying replacement parts - sometimes it's just laziness on the part of the seller, sometimes just genuine lack of knowledge.