Also check the clutch push rod that goes through the case. If it’s bent it may not slide smoothly and release all the way!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oil can be a touchy subject but most here will agree that any wet clutch compatible oil you can get today is probably superior to the original 30wt I've tried anything from Yamalube to full synthetic in mine and can't say I've noticed any difference across a large variety of brands. I lean towards going cheaper and changing it often.

Yes thank you MarkT. Just looked in manual. Clutch Friction Plates indeed 4mm.
Can’t find any specs for the metal clutch plates though.

Update.
First, the clutch push rod No. 2 is strait and does not bind.
-All the springs ok. ( 2@31.5, 32, 30.5mm). Manual spec. is 31.5mm.
-Metal plates look ok. No sign of any warping or excess wear.
-Fibre plates have some wear areas but all measure 4mm.
-Clutch housing has groves on its ears. These would cause grabbing and not slipping I think.
Anything else to look at or anything catch your eyes as to why the clutch slips?
Thank you.

Just noticed that our clutch pack assembly may have been put together wrong by PO.
The pack, per parts manual ought to go as so from inside engine outwards.
Metal Plate, Rubber Ring, Friction Plate Etc..... in that order.
Well, ours had the Rubber Ring first against the Boss.
I suspect this could be the culprit. In one of my photos you may see the Rubber Ring as it was mounted.
Thoughts?

Rubber rings need to be fitted to the inside of the frictions... your frictions look a little wide for that? Can't really tell.

In any case, I leave the rubber rings completely out.... I throw them in the trash. I think they can swell up and contribute to slipping.

Also, parts diagrams are not always correct. the early clutch starts with a friction in first and ends with a steel. Very important to end with a steel on top under the spring loaded pressure plate on that model.

Here's the engineering drawing on the clutch:



Here's a close up. Note that the Friction (F) goes in FIRST. The Rubber Ring (R) actually has a "V" shape and fits inside the Friction.

VERY IMPORTANT If using rubber rings, the closed end of the "V" goes against the outside of the hub with the open end of the "V" facing the inside of the friction. Do not let the rings twist as you slide them down the hub! They must be installed carefully exactly as described if using them. Not something you want to "throw together". (Or toss them like I do, your choice)

Then note the stack ends with a Steel (S) on top as the last disc installed before the pressure plate.







.

Thank you MarkT. Excellent info. Can you elaborate on the Frictions looking too wide. The ones in photo are 8mm wide and the tab part 15mm.
This is our first clutch rebuild. What should goof frictions look like vs. worn ones?
Recommend EBC’s or OEM?

The rubber ring has to fit in the gap between the inside of the friction and the outside of the inner hub.

By memory, frictions on the early models were narrower with a larger inside diameter than you have? I could definitely be wrong. If you are using the rubber rings, you can easily tell if they fit or not. If you have to jam rubber rings in gap, either disks are wrong to use with rings or rings have swollen up.

Like I said, I leave the rubber rings out.

(Note that there are wider frictions that are not designed to be used with rubber rings.)

Oh... on the frictions if they are 4mm thick they should be fine. I've used OEM and Vesrah I think... Clutches seem pretty robust in terms of wear on the 175 and haven't had many worn out ones.