That is indeed a good tip,I got in trouble for doing something similar at work though.The new lights on the new trucks have LEDs and as I did a lot of backing up at night they were blinding me soooo...
I started using a black magic marker and colored the front half.After a week or so I got called in to the shop and asked WTH I was doing.I apologized and told the boss that all these new trucks were pretty and all but none of them have the old blinders any more and can I please drive the old 1961 FORD as I loved its character and did not think any else would want it.I was shocked to find that HE preferred it as well.

I got to get the latest batch of pics uploaded to Photobucket but I do have a new video.

I oiled the air filter and went over the bike checking it all out and it was all good.

I wired the Powerdynamo into the wiring harness I got and took it for a little toot.



when the revs are up where it is very happy which is 6000 and beyond, the stock clutch will slip. when I get a crankshaft rebuilt it will also get a Barnett clutch. there is a few times the clutch just gives up and you can hear this when it happens. this clutch would had been fine for a stock DT400 or DT250 but it can't handle a engine with a MX400B top end on it.

Much less if that 360 head were to find its way on it


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that's no joke there Bluntz. I plan to send Racer Clam my Webco 360 head to mod it to accept a 85 mm bore and apply the torque slots mod he does and the IT carb for a UFO installation and the trick divider mod he makes to sharpen up the throttle response and better fuel economy. then send a DT400 Pipe to Meis for a sleeper pipe mod.

as for me it needs nothing else but it can use a little help in cooling and hopefully improve fuel mileage. I read another test on a MX400B and the reported fuel economy was 16 to 25 MPG. it will be a thirsty one if this is true.

I love the power of this engine and it has the exact power curve I want. imho this is how a DT400 should run. keep the revs low and it is as docile as a stock DT400B but turn up the wick and it runs very hard. anyone can ride this if discretion is used but if you pull the trigger and it can bite you if you are not ready.

there is a few refinements I want to do but what a great package it is already. and this is easy to duplicate for almost anyone.

also in the MX400B test I read, it was prone to overheating when ran hard and the Webco head will take care of that. the Webco 1976 YZ400C head is now gone and I missed my chance but I still have the 73-74 Webco MX360 head and it can be reworked to work on a 400.

for peace of mind I plan to rebuild a crankshaft for it and install it when the time comes. I want to get the tools for removing and replacing the crankshaft as this would make the job a lot easier and no where as tedious. sick of rigging ways to do this when I split cases.

the crankshaft appeared to be ok when I built the engine but it still has the chatter like it did before. this will be done before the break in will be finished I hope.

another thing I found is the compression release is not working like it should. I suspect the little hole in the cylinder or the compression release itself is blocked with carbon. as the rings set up it is very hard to kick when the compression stroke comes up.

You can always set it up for Methanol,runs much cooler
Now that's a wolf in sheeps clothing you got there,nice sleeper.... Me Likey

thanks Bluntz but I don't think I would run it on methanol. this will make the appetite for fuel worse and it is pretty bad already. I put 12 miles on 1 gallon of fuel and it drank it all down in 12 miles! it is set up a little fat and it is indeed very thirsty.

no WFO riding but I was not exactly babying it too much either.
I ran it out of fuel today and ended up pushing it home. the fuel tank was bone dry after the little ride.

Well,at least any old fuel is gone.

true dat!

I got some updates to post and some pics.
here is a pic of the parts I got this time around. it is a wiring harness, LH switch and some other bits I needed.

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reattaching a stinger to the Hooker pipe. the silencer Hooker put on these was a joke! they were not much quieter with the silencer in than it was with it out so I plan to go with a different silencer on the Hooker pipe and I need a stinger back on.

I cut off the stock non silencer (giggle snort!) and fitted it with a regular 1 1/4" tube for a silencer.

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then tried to weld it on. my eyesight is not what it used to be and I can't follow puddles that well. the result was a very crude weld but it should hold.

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the pipe reinstalled. I will get a FMF turbine core II when I can. it should make it quieter than a bone stock Hooker pipe ever could be.

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this pipe is a stand in until I get the sleeper pipe all done.
now to address why it is so hard to kick over.

I did a compression test with the compression release still connected and this was the result. I could not spin it with conviction well though.

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I removed the pipe,tank, Head and the Compression release and as I suspected, the little hole is plugged solid.

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I looked at the original cylinder for this engine so see how the compression release was set up.

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