Apropos earlier in the thread.  I was slinking around in the machine shop and saw one of the lads fastening a bearing track into a lathe.  Interest piqued, I wandered over, wiped my nose on my sleeve and said "watcha dooin".

Apparently the grinder had broke down and he was using one of the lathes to make a special fillet on a bearing.
I thought it would be good to take some pics to show how it is done.  You cannot see anything in the grinder as the bearing to be copied is loaded in and the grinder copies it.  Nothing to photograph.  All behind guards.

Unforunately in my case, the grinder cannot add metal.....

Bearing to be copied is a special bearing for a Clarke transmission. It fits on a heavily filleted shaft and needs a special internal profile to fit against it.  Cost of this bearing from Clarke is over £300.
Basic ISO bearing is about £60.  No brainer, they do a batch of about 20 at a time.

The lathe method is same as the grinder method, only the grinder copies the bearing profile itself directly from the original bearing and the lathe needs the machinist to make a profile template.  They use a laser scanner (cardboard and scissors in the old days) to get the profile and input the coordinates into a laser cutter to cut out the profile for the lathe.  Usually the cutter is used to make gaskets.

Profile of required fillet made and fitted into lathe.  The arm follows the profile and controls the cut.  It is actually a mirror image of the required cut.


Bearing getting whizzed around in the lathe.  The cutting tool needs to be upside down and the lathe is actually in reverse.  No coolant used for some reason, and the sparks were pretty impressive.  Did not turn out well on the pic.


£60 bearing turned into a £300 one.

 

To purloin a phrase from Motley Crue..  Kickstart my Heart.

Carb on, exhaust on, wiring connected, fuel tank plopped on.  Fuel feed connected.  Autolube pump bled.

Ignition on.  Kick.  Kick ring a ding ding.

Ran it long enough to set idle and check autolube pump was stroking.  It was.

Pulled back the pulley to observe max pump stroke output.  Looked like it should from what I remembered from last time I checked this un and the 100 output.  Since I never disturbed the pump or any adjustments, and it is stroking, I will call that ok.  I have no premixed fuel to run it long enough to measure output and I do not want to idle it for a few minutes with just the build lube inside.  Injection pipe refitted and let it warm up for five minutes.

Sounds good and has six in the box.

Just need to fit the carb vent pipework, button down the tank, refit the oil pump cover and generator cover, and she is pretty much ready for a gentle road test.  Piston rings have already been heat cycled and bedded in.

It was pretty smoky in there as the build oil was burned off.



 

Road test time.  Took her out on a run arround the village perimeter.  Probably around three miles.

She pulls fairly strongly through the gears and behaved impeccably.  
She feels different somehow, more refined.  Perhaps now the carb has been put back to stock settings and with genuine parts, the carburation is right.

Although I have not taken her above 5000rpm yet, I can still detect that vibration through the pegs at 5000rpm, but I had a notion as to what it could be over the winter.
I think it is the chain running over the new nylon chain tensioner block.  It has not yet worn enough to allow the chain rollers to glide across it and I am feeling the edges of the sideplates hitting the edge and sliding over the block.
The tensioner arm is bolted to the same frame crossmember that the pegs are fastened to....

Back where she belongs.. On a very chilly day.  My nose has not stopped running yet..


 

So the demon has been exorcised?
Sneezles61

Hope so.  Before I take it on a longer run with high throttle settings in warmer weather, I am going to buy myself a CHT gauge to see how high it goes at WOT.