Lay both cables on a bench and compare the sheaths and cables. I've found that old cables will have the sheath compressed, not the cable stretched. Some new aftermarket cables I have are harder to pull than others even with cable lube.

Also did you or the previous owner do any clutch work? Sometimes the ball at the end of the pushrod is missing and there was one instance of the rod being too short and another guy had a missing clutch plate.....

I agree with 1971DT250, I think your issue is elsewhere.

Way back in pic2, if that's bottomed out then i'd be looking at a split nylon part where it looses movement expanding at the split & getting to the lifting point. When lifting the clutch it will go 'stiff as' because its trying to spread at the split plus push sideways. Be unusual to move within the actuator without splitting but always something new to learn & could be it.

I have not done any clutch work, not sure however about the previous owner. I'll have to get into the clutch side and check what condition it is in. The ball bearing in the push lever assembly is there. Any idea how long the OEM rod should be? And can I just slide this out to measure it?

The rod (push rod 2) is 7 1/4" long and sticks out 1 1/4". It can be pulled out with the sprocket cover removed. There is another ball bearing inside the engine, item # 13 in the parts diagram between the push rod 1 and push rod 2. This is removed after the clutch pressure plate is removed.
 

If your pushrod is too short & the adjuster in the actuator won't reach it--then that's one thing to worry about. But if the adjuster takes up the play as it should & the arm won't go down & start lifting from about say 8 oclock [he say looking at the clock] then that's your main problem. So i'd concentrate on the actuator problem you first asked about. If i'm on the right page haha--sometimes i wonder where i am.