There is at least 6 of them on e-bay.  just search by part number in all categories. 

I got the flat bearing and thin washer. just wanted to confirm where the thin washer goes.

I did a trial assembly and everything spins free, but there is still about 1/8 inch play in the basket. I'm thinking that is not an issue with the angle cut gears. Unless you guys say otherwise, I'm bolting it up.

Ok, I now have no end play on the basket and slight drag on the center. I'm going with it.

The next trick will be winding the kick start spring. any tips?

There's no real windind involved when refiting the spring other than pulling the hook into place which will give you all the tension it needs.
A good pair of needle pliers is usually the best tool.
There is a mark on the axle and one on the ratchet that you need to align before hooking on the spring, manual in the Tech Library will show it clearly.
Good luck.
 

Just wondering how you went from 1/8 end play of the basket to 'no' end play from post #22 to #23. Zero i s ok i guess but wouldn't want it binding enough to load the flat bearing continually. Hope ya all ok. Was 1/8 play just on the helical big gear as the basket is fitted with a cush setup--springs in this case by memory not internal rubbers--so i guess there'd be some play of sorts at the mesh of crank & clutch & you tried to twist move it.
Or did i read the post wrong--possible with me lol.

end play question was due to me not really being in the mood to work on this thing. I was just mocking up to see what fit and did not hace the center nut tight.

Now I'm looking at the clutch plates. (idiot that assembled this had steel plates on steel and friction on friction) I have 7 friction plates and 8 steel. book says 7 steel. and one plate is much thicker. 2.31mm compared to 1.66 on the others. comments?

re. the kick start mech. as usual the marks were about 100 degrees off from lining up.

just thinking out loud now, but that flaat bearing behind the clutch seems very fragile. considering the torque in takes to flatten the beville washer. I think the book says 35 pounds.

( this guy also left the wrist pin circlips out).

maybe I'll go do the wiring, that part's easy.

If you have it assembled right, the tall spacer stops the inner hub from putting ANY pressure on the flat bearing.  The bearing and various washers shim the outer hub so it has a little end play on the tall spacer 

Thick steel goes in first. 

If you use a "71 diagram the numbers etc are clearer. As MarkT said the first one in is thicker-- & pretty much takes the load of all the plates squashing up against it. The second one [if its not been replaced by a friction] is a thick steel with no internal splines & seems to be purely a spacer to take place of the friction--i guess?. Not sure why they didn't add internal splines & just call 3 steels together or i'm not understanding its purpose. Anyway i used to add a fiber in its place but was cranking more power out of mine to race. No5 i'm talking. & No6 rubber cushions you can leave out [if they're in there] as serve no useful purpose, or debatable purpose as 'might' soften the clutch uptake if ya lucky. Hope i've not complicated things--as i tend to do--just when ya happy.

www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1971/dt1e/clutch

very easy to follow video on clutch assembly. its in japanese though.