I got the dreaded "free bike",   it's titled as a 72 dt250,   (vin dt1f...............).    frame tag says it was built december of 71.   None of the online parts lists or manuals match what is in this motor.

A friend had the bike and sold it to a guy who wanted something for is kid to learn mechanics on.  what the kid learned was it should be illegal for him to touch a wrench.  So after the kid had everything back together wrong or left out, it was given back to my friend who gave it to me.

I'm putting it back together after splitting the cases and correcting the screw ups.  such as leaving out the shift drum plunger and filling the hole with yamabond and gluing a quarter on as an oil plug.

I'm currently stuck on resetting the clutch basket.  parts diagrams show a thrust washer and a flat thrust bearing.  (which I don't have).  Then that same washer between the clutch basket and hub.  (which doesn't seem right).  I have a bearing in the case which the hardened sleeve butts up to.

No matter what order I try, as soon as I start to tighen the clutch nut, it starts to bind.  I would post pics if I could figure out how to make it work

 

Currently posting pictures is not working, you have to use an image hosting site. Have you looked at diagrams on Partzilla or CMSNL, they can show what belongs and in what order, I know I've used them as have others here...

It's a fiddle to 'not' trap things while tightening as its easy for the bearing to get trapped as it can drop behind the spacer if things move out fractionally during assembly before tightening the nut. So here's how it goes 'by memory', the flat bearing has a thin washer--not shown--but gives the bearing something to run on against the kick gear--kick gear also not shown--Confused?--i am lol. So the face of the flat bearing runs against the 'big' washer, & as i said has a thin washer the other side to protect it from the kick gear. See how ya go. If things go tight & hub won't turn when nut is nipped up the look at why there's no end clearance on the spacer the basket rotates on. Sometimes after years of tightening, things compress & only takes a slightly dented washer from the spacer to take away minimal end running clearance. All the best.
Just to add--thin washer is part of the flat bearing & comes with it when bought new.


www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1971/dt1e/clutch

Yes, key thing is flat bearing has thin washer that comes with it and they only show "bearing" part in parts diagram.

The thicker washers shown and listed in parts diagram are also required.

As I said, the diagrams on partzilla do not match everything on this motor, and I do not have the flat bearing.

I tried to use the image hosting that I usually use but it would not post. I'll try it again.

Oh, um, back in the corner for me. Maybe they were running a shorter spacer & no bearing, otherwise you'd have heaps of basket end play approx equal to the flat bearing. I think i've seen later desgn motors like DT250A with that setup & no bearing, just washers. I'll go study. Plenty of oil so would be ok like that. Thanks for the great pics. Looks like there's been some action against one of those washers. & i'm thinking one washer goes on the shaft against a smaller thick-is washer against the case bearing then kick gear & basket with spacer then the other big washer, then hub. So if you slid the spacer in the basket on the bench then kick gear & held the bug washer against it you should have running clearance the front side for other big washer so the basket can revolve with hub nutted up to it.

I give up. "74 DT250A shows #17 sitting up on the spacer, not against it like i was thinking. Maybe when i did that sort of thing on one of my bikes built from old parts i just did it how i described, big washer against spacer both sides of basket which worked ok. So i'm no help sorry.
www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/1974/dt250a/clutch

Yeah that lower washer in the pic expanding it looks a bit like the bearing has been destroyed & chewed the washer. But then again the spacer doesn't look as long as i imagined but might be photo angle. Great pics thanks & expand up good. Forgotten what i was gonna say. Oh yeah, small point & not super important but by memory the circlip ears holding the crank seal should be somewhere around the top at an arrow. It really only relates to the inner--same--clip as it covers an oil way if not aligned either side of the arrow. Question is i guess--how is the inner one placed. I wouldn't worry & go pulling the seal--now i've worried ya--because even if its over the oil way, a flat circlip going past a round hole it'll still get fuel mix down past there. Besides, there's a slight running gap between crank bearing & flywheel as crank has a slight step to give the outer bearing ring revolving clearance so plenty of oil mix opertunity to lube it. Lot or writting for nothing haha.

Looks like you are missing #19 and #17. #17 is the 2 piece thrust washer/bearing. You have both #18, one of them goes between the clutch basket and inner hub.
The basket fingers look like they have grooves. If they are not too deep you can use a flat file and get some more life out of the basket.

Also this might help you avoid trouble.

yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/1968...hrust-bearing#153961