Ask DEET to fix all three parts.

flywheel
stator
ignition coil 

When Monica the Intern popped and backfired it was a deet-mergency. 

no issues since. USPS $16.05 

a

Just for kicks i took the cover of my DT1 mag & did a test. As i said previously my meter won't zero but goes to 1 ohm. So call "one" zero then. Watch the video [if its watchable]. Couple of ohm between open & closed but quite noticeable
youtube.com/shorts/qVm-uhxIAT4

That is the idea. Short the test leads together and note the reading. That is zero. Then make your test on whatever you are testing. Modern digital meters no longer have a "zero adjust" knob (normally factory adjusted internally) but it doesn't matter as long as you know the test lead shorted value. Subtract that value from the total resistance measurement and you have the actual circuit resistance.

Yep, i'm only moving the flywheel an inch or two in the video, forward & back. Funny thing is i discovered i have a brass overlay on my flywheel which might explain its lazy idle but still powerfull get up & go. Been 30 years or so since i looked in there & don't remember that flywheel as have another with even more weight added. Think i've got a DT1MX piston fitted which has a shorter inlet skirt plus a 360 carb so gets along enough for a slipping clutch haha.

sometimes you can clean the points all you want and it wont spark...what happens is those little fiber washers that insulate the wire that attaches to your points get gas and oil and moisture
on them and shorts out..try taking those off and cleaning them in carb spray and let them dry and put them back on.
 

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, you've given me a couple more things to try.

I did clean the points again today, I don't have a white business card so I used some thick bond paper doubled and it comes out clean.  I'm still getting the same reading from my meter.

Getting frustrated and wish I knew more about electrical system! 

I'm getting confused as to what post i'm on haha. But did we ever get to a point of reading a change in resistance between open & closed for the points. Flywheel [if off] wouldn't need to be on for that, just manually open & close them to note the change.

LOL you think you're confused!  I was trying to get that zero reading from the points that Mark says I should get when they are closed but yeah I am getting a reading of 2.4 with points open and 3.5 with them closed.  I did do short the leads across each other like alnarv suggested and got a reading of 1.7 so I guess that's my zero (?) which would make my readings 0.7 open and 1.8 closed the latter far from zero. 

So I've decided I'm going to just go a head and change the points and condenser, any recommendations on where to get them?  I don't want to get cheap chinese junk.  Thanks...

Original new old stock or quality pattern (eg Daiichi) should be available on fleabay.

If sold as original parts, look closely at the listing photos for the Hitachi or Mitsubishi logo (can't remember off hand which they use!) stamp on the parts.