Does seem like this one is gonna different from the regular problems though. Did we get a video--long one for a good listen & watch. Probably the best way to stop all the guesswork as much as we can. Defo running with the choke closed once started?. That's lever up or knob in [um, did i say that lol] depending on carb.

I can do a video of it idling. I do one kick choke (lever up) and USUALLY unless it's previously stalled recently from being moved around, the second kick gets her going. And like I've said idle all day long. I did temp the head for giggles yesterday with a digital laser style gauge and after idling for 10 minutes was only 220 at the plug area, 89 degrees outside. Just for random information. One guy I was reading said his gets 350 and it's kinda like operating temp for him so I was curious.
ANYWAY. yeah I could do that and show ya the stalling once wiggled or moved. Oddly enough sitting on it doesn't affect anything.
Carb is the VM24SH stock, not the china knock off.

Oh and I tried a mentioned theory test by shutting off the gas to mimic a lower float level for about 5-8 seconds and then try to wiggle the bike to make it stall. But it made no difference. 

If I understand this correctly, you have a 1970 AT-1B. I have a 1971 CT-1 C. You wrote that lever up was choke on, but on my CT-1C lever down is choke on.

Unless they changed it from 1970 to '71, you might be putting the lever in the wrong position for choke. I actually was confused about that when I first started working on my bike.

Push the lever down and try starting it, then after it warms up for a few minutes, lift the lever up and see what happens.

Stalls, when I lift the lever the plunger goes down and plugs one of the main ports on the mouth of the carb. And to the bowl, and finally to the other side of the slide. Lol sorry I've traced all the ports for hours because of that one I still think is fake.

When I left the lever, the plunger goes down and closes the port that allows the extra gas to go in when starting. This carburetor doesn't actually choke air, it allows more gas to go in.

Are you freakin telling me I have my idea of choke on this carb backwards?! X_X OMG I'm learning so much. So sorry if it's all so obvious to you guys. Now I need to start from scratch. Or say my bike idles great with the choke on? Omg

I think you're right & just we're confusing each other. We all know what we mean--so long as you know what we mean haha. So long as plunger is down after warmed up or before if its getting over-rich then you're ok. Plunger down when you ride off--which is lever up of course.

See, previously I assumed plunger up (lever down) was "out of the way" as it opened up the port on the mouth of the carb. Dang it. Thank you so much for that bit. Somewhere along the line I got it reversed in my head no wonder it doesn't want to actually go. If plunger up allows more gas, movement of the bike PROBABLY allows even more to gush up through the open GAS port not AIR and flood the crap outa it.

So now if that is right, I will have to figure out why lever UP (rubber closing that bottom port hole to the bowl) stalls it out. Hmmm 

Oh, your post arrived while i was typing so might need to withdraw what i said haha if you did have it back to front. So if you "did" & now its sorted that real neat. So we wait wit baited breat--& hope. Cheers.

Weighing in late here. First we need to clarify what the parameters are for starting and idling the bike, before moving to WOT. As Tom P said, if the choke lever is up, the choke is off. So " I do one kick choke (lever up) and USUALLY unless it's previously stalled recently from being moved around, the second kick gets her going." On my '72 Suzuki TS185 which runs well and has the same carburetor choke operation, it will not start with the choke lever up. Full stop. Even if ambient temps are 100f. It needs the choke on to start regardless of ambient temperature. The lever pushing down, raising the plunger, allows extra fuel into the carb in a rather direct drip fashion.