Alright so I have tried all the suggestions and then some, went over a few things again and again and nothing.
She will idle great all day so long as standing up right , meaning not on the kickstand or 30 degrees tilted right. Kick stand will cause higher idle and tilted right will choke out and die. To put this in a little simpler perspective all I have to do is walk the bike while sitting to turn it around and it stalls out. Float level? I don't know. All wiring is sound, I checked it over again, and can wiggle them during idle. Headlight never dims or cuts out when it dies either. Errrrrr

This won't really make sense but anyway. I wonder if someone has fitted heavier advance springs & you have the idle on the point of being pulled onto retard & stopping it. Just the fact of movement forward or sideways is altering revs by a few hundred lower [maybe aggravated by a slightly high fuel level] is tipping the scales. Just increase the idle a bit to prove a point. Is your timing advanced enough, 1.8btdc held open on advance. Is there more movement than there should be in the mechanism so its dropping back too far on retard [that doesn't make sense though].

Nah I get what you are talking about. But I do not have a dial gauge for setting. Looks like I'll have to go shopping. Additionally, I have owned it for a while and it used to run excellent. (No kidding right?) But my point is nothing's been changed out. It is sounding more and more like a "save up and rebuild the whole thing" project for next year.
I appreciate everyone's help on this so far!
Someone mentioned float level, would just walking the bike manipulate that enough to kill it if set just a few mm off?

Yeah i dunno, if the fuel level was high enough to cause problems it'd probably be spilling out the bowl breather overflow pipe when moving like you say. Check ya points gap as could have closed down with fiber heal wear over the years. If timing has been close then setting the gap will bring it back to close for now as might be retarded in timing [close gap] the when drops onto full retard she's at tdc or past. Talking dial gauge i can't for the life of we see how they can work in an angled plug hole. I'll swear we had a calculation yamaha gave up at work for the angled hole & dial gauge but don't ever recall using it. I'm from the old days of British singles & a wire or screwdriver down the plug hole then mark it at whatever 3/8 inch long stroke motors. I just do that on my DT1 lol bit of bronze welding wire & 3.2mm in my case or 1.8mm in yours. Jeez i'm gonna get scalded over this post!! giving out bad ideas.

Haha that's hilarious but entirely useful in a pinch. It always worked right? So even if it's not dead on it is still useful knowlage for sure. Doesn't hurt to try at the very least

Guys, what is this port for? I cannot for the life of me find an exit to it. Is it a fake one? 
if not then it may be plugged and that's my issue. 

On the Mikuni's I'm familiar with the ports on the bottom that are on either side of the needle jet air inlet (in the center) bring air to the air screw. The carbs are cast to allow the air screw to be on either side (my assumption) and the unused side air inlet port is blanked off (brass sphere on left in your photo) or left partially unmachined.

I'm not sure if this applies to your particular carb but I suspect it does.

Removing the air screw and spraying carb cleaner or WD40 in the removed air screw opening using the "straw" that comes with the can and tracing where the liquid exited would verify how air gets to the air screw.

Yep I have previously done that and it goes to the needle slide which also comes straight out to the middle hole. (Air part of the mix I'm sure). I went and got a proper #36 o ring for the bowl pickup and now it stalls out during the once was brilliant idle. Im close to putting it on the side of the road for free.

Just to confirm... did you ever increase the idle to around 1200 to 1300 rpm? And what's your address in case you decide to set it out at the side of the road for free :0)

2000, 1500, 1000, 1200, anything nothing matters. I think I just need a break from the tinkering with it for now. Ide live to find someone local who could train me on the old bike ways. It can't be as hard as it seems. It's all so dinosaur and basic, just before my time which is OBD1/2 and programming with romraider . Cars of my era didn't have carbs. I'm sure the right person (any of you on here I'm sure) could fix it in 10 minutes if you saw the problem in person. I hope to get to that level over time. And you guys are a great help