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Way back in pic2, if that's bottomed out then i'd be looking at a split nylon part where it looses movement expanding at the split & getting to the lifting point. When lifting the clutch it will go 'stiff as' because its trying to spread at the split plus push sideways. Be unusual to move within the actuator without splitting but always something new to learn & could be it.

Ok, thank you for all of the comments. I agree that it is not sensible to replace something that is not broken and I can't see any breaks in the plastic gear. However it does not feel like I can get the assembly to the right starting point. It's like the clutch cable is too long to pull the actuator (it is needing to be adjusted at the lever end all the way out). I think it is the original cable and a replacement that I have seems the same length. With either cable when I put the bike back together and adjust the screw and locking nut to the 1/4 out from tension point as per the manual instructions the first pull on the lever feels like it engages the clutch. When I let the lever out however there is not a lot of tension pulling the lever back to it's start position and when I go to pull it again there is a huge amount of free play in the lever (and no sense that it is pulling the clutch in). I am really at a loss to know how I have got myself in this pickle. Any more ideas?

Exactly, that's what I used on my DT2 and works perfectly!  It was not easy to get it in but used a friends vise, did a little at a time and made sure everything was square.  Also and very important, make note of the orientation of the plastic gear, I marked mine with a black sharpy so I knew exactly how the new brass piece should be oriented. 

New bronze gear from KDI is the ticket to fix the actuator, IMHO. D

Here's a link from long ago & there will be more on the site if you search for actuator mods etc.
yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/1972...ng-for-advice#130060

I'll add to this. I have several NOS complete clutch assemblies. They came with 6 friction plates. I do believe the later 360s used a 7th friction plate instead of the spacer.
The springs in some of them measure 30.5mm and and some measure 33.5mm. Could be the 33.5mm were for intended for MX models or 360s. They may have compressed a little after being under tension for 50 years. New springs that are still available from Yamaha  part # 90501-20122 measure 32.5mm and # 90501-20124 measure 34mm.
Friction plate # 5Y1-16331-01 still available from Yamaha has better friction pads than the original. They also have thicker tabs that go between the basket fingers which will reduce "combing" of the fingers.
For a 250 I would use the shorter springs and 6 friction plates. For the 360 longer springs and 7 friction plates.

And check the nylon spiral on the push actuator for cracking. And check the basket fingers for grooves ("combing").

On the left side under a two screw small cover you have a locknut & center adjuster. First back off the cable at the handle bar lever, then crack the nut loose down below & take up the free play on the center screw. Take it up to contact the pushrod then back it out 1/4 turn & lock up the nut. Then take up any cable play to leave a bit off free play at the lever. That's how i do it but after 50 years things don't go to plan. So the nut might not want to free as will turn the lot & push the clutch pushrod. I hope not or you'll need a plan to overcome that by blocking the arm behind the cover--easy for me as my cover is broken & accessable behind. Also the cable needs to be nice & free moving or can help towards clutch slip if it doesn't let go to be free down at the arm. Next thing--or first thing--is the operating worm--called actuator--splits on those & gets very tight to pull the clutch in as it expands at the split nylon part when the lever is pulled. So be sure of that if you're having issues like i described.
First thing 'is' are you having problems causing you to need to adjust?.
Sorry if i'm making a pigs ear of a straight forward job but just covering bases just incase.
& me doing everything back to front--Welcome from NZ if you're new. Hope you enjoy the forum. Others will be along soon likely with easier to understand instructions. All good.
One more thing & after a few edits haha--'if the nylon actuator is split, you loose about half your lifting movement with it trying to lift but getting nowhere untill the lever is about halway through its usable movement.

Wow! Not like Yamaha ! Think I'll grease it up and
reuse !
Thanks for the info

Yeah sorry about reposting ! I was having trouble with my phone.