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i tried a 4 mm ball and it is too much. should the mushroom rod be flush in the shaft or stick out a bit ? mine is flush when i start to turn the actuator arm the mushroom starts to move imeidiatly just dont feel resistance .should there be a spacer on the cable before it goes into the cable guide on the crank case ? is there an easy way to remove the rod to measure it etc ?

    does this cable and actuator position look right ?i can move the actuator arm about 15mm anti clockwise before i feel it start to move the push rod ??

Hi Fellas, i have a DT 175 model A 1974 that i am trying to restore . i have put a replacement clutch cable on today but it appears to be to long as it just takes up the slack in the actuator arm not actually moving the plates .am i missing something obvious or have i been sent the wrong cable ?

Dave also sells the clutch actuator worm drive . I have just bought one from him as mine is split on the DT1.
Handy to know.

Firstly be sure its got clearance on the actuator adjuster on the left & also a less than perfect cable can give a false impression or even hold a light preload on the actuator & it doesn't take much to give grief, Even to the point of [if zero clearance] & the helical [whatever they are-angled teeth]; The angled clutch gear tries to drag it all sideways. And if any slight side movement of bearing in the case then the clutch frees a whisker & slips under power. I doubt your plates are toast & i'm going to the extremes with my comments but have had that happen.
But wait there's more lol--on my 175 [AT1--175 top end] it slipped like crazy under power. [clutch never been off since new 1970] but recently [vid up here somewhere of mine] i recently beat the s--t [snot not s--t] out of it around a track & it damn well came right unbelievably. Might come back to bite me but is ok at the mo. So check its not very overfull of oil then go ride it again. If you need to go 'in' then leave out the rubber rings under the plates & de-glaze the fibers & scratch the steels.
Edit--Also actuator arm needs a good spring to keep it right back with clearance & doesn't take much of a cruddy cable to overcome the spring.

Hey everyone! I just remembered I had a couple of files floating around that I went to some trouble to create, and I thought I would put them out there for anyone who might need them at some point.

First one is a clutch actuator worm gear. One issue that I had before my ignition issue was that my clutch actuator gear broke, which was a bit of a pain in the ass as the only replacement was $75. I drafted the gear and iterated it a couple of times for 3D printing, so I will include the source file (autocad) as well as the STLs that I printed from. The one on the bike is just made of nylon, so if you have access to a nylon-capable 3D printer this will save you $75. The outer dimensions of the gear and thread pitch don't change between iterations, but the shaft hole diameter is the only source of issue as the original (somewhat stupidly) seems to rely on a friction fit for retention. It's just a matter of finding which file creates the right interference fit when printed on your printer, you can also print the hole small and sand it out to make it a bit looser (I did that).

The other file is something that I used when I was rewinding my source coil, should anyone ever have to do that again. It's just a model of a part to replace the paper coil stops that always seem to break. Dims and thickness are all ripped straight from the paper one, it fits perfectly. I have noticed some minor sagging after using it on the bike (it gets warm and I printed with a relatively low temperature thermoplastic) but after dozens of miles of riding it is still going strong.

Hope this can help somebody! Thanks for reading

 

If its original it could have the rubber spreaders under each fiber so disgard them although aftermarket fibers may not have room for them to sit under which is ok. Fibers glaze up & any roughing up will only be a temporary cure. There's an actuator center adjuster on the left cover but if its got clearance at the H/bar lever you likely have down below. To prove that just get a socket onto the locknut & see if any free movement before it pushes the rod. If preloaded then crack it free & give it an 1/8 turn of free & see if it helps slippage. But my guess is still new fibers sorry.

If your pushrod is too short & the adjuster in the actuator won't reach it--then that's one thing to worry about. But if the adjuster takes up the play as it should & the arm won't go down & start lifting from about say 8 oclock [he say looking at the clock] then that's your main problem. So i'd concentrate on the actuator problem you first asked about. If i'm on the right page haha--sometimes i wonder where i am.