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I forgot that bit--wheeling backwards. Can a floppy rear sprocket do something to the chain run when wheeling backwards opposite to wheeling it forwards. I dunno.
I see the cable is quite angled to get to the cable mount thingy. If its catching on 'that' can you just bend it over more in line as a quick fix.

Can you back the cable off anymore & the adjust the center adjuster so the actuator starts from as far down [call it back then] as possible.
Only other thing i can think of 'is' have you oriented it slightly wrong where it's screwed to the case & ended up with the arm starting to low down around the bottom so you would have to back out the adjuster to let it come around enough for the cable to connect.
In 'that' situation you would end up with the actuator worming [turning] out & therefor closer to the sprocket before it starts to lift--then when lifted [operating clutch] it runs into the sprocket.
One more try--is the sprocket correct & not with a step behind & setting it out slightly. I've seen some that look like that!!. but not genuine DT.

Ok, so CT3 with a plastic actuator worm, & worm had been turned out to re-grease & restarted on the wrong spiral setting the actuator to far over???.
Good she's sorted.

No easy to guess just yet. But the plunger head doesn't neccessarily have to be flush, but needs clearance to the pressure plate before the actuator in the left cover starts pushing.
Sorry, bit hard to explain. Here's something to try--leave the left cover off [or very loose] so you know the actuator is out of the way. Then pop into gear & try pushing it.
If you want just start it minus the left cover then paddle along & pop into gear, see if it drives.
Just proving a point so as to at least eliminate the left side or positively say it 'is' the actuator left side issue.
I suspect something amiss in the clutch itself but hope i'm wrong as left side might be easier to sort.

Folks, It's time.  I have decided that the time to let someone else enjoy what has, for me, been nothing but GREAT times for me.  I bought this, original, unrestored, on-line.  When it got here, I dealt with the usual problems, like the clutch actuator (with a permanent fix!) and then added everything I would have added back in 1973, if I only had the money.  It's been to a number of California Dreamin' get togethers last one being in 2019, where I was T-boned outside of Lancaster, enroute to Hungry Valley.  Everything damaged was replaced, with BETTER parts than I had!  Since then I haven't ridden it very often, as my right knee is bad (I was supposed to have knee replacement, but our local Kaiser Permanente hospital discovered they had contaminated water, so I' m now in limbo.  I haven't ridden it for over a year (float bowl was drained and is dry).  I went out to go riding, and decided to replace the plug, as it had been in for over 18 months.  Pulling off the plug cap, I pulled the cap off of the lead itself.  I shortened it by 1/4" and found that it now didn't reach, so moved it into the other plug hole.  It's no-spark, probably since I haven't cleaned the points for over a year, and it had been setting.  At least the float bowl was drained, and is dry.  Anyway, I have two spare coils if it's that as well.  Starting up front, I replaced the fork springs with S&W springs, the seals, and new fork oil.  There is a 12V voltage regulator, and I'm running an H-4 Halogen light (brite!) and haven't blown a bulb since 2014.  It's got a Barnett clutch and springs, which were needed after adding and jetting for a Sleeper Pipe from Dave Meis (#24?), and the head has had .005" milled off.  It's got a K&N air cleaner, and a smaller tail/brake light that won't bite you in your privates.  It has a spring-loaded chain tensioner, originally designed for the DT-2/3 MX bikes, and a new chain.  It's also running a 16-tooth countershaft sprocket.  It handled rides from my home to the Border where I worked (INS/ICE/CBP), a 48 mile round trip, all freeway with no problem.  It's on a first over piston and rings, and I have the next oversize piston & rings from Wiseco ready when needed.  The autolube is working great as well.  I have enough spare parts, lights, gaskets, seals, levers, etc. to keep it running for another 15 years, or longer.  I can't add photos, but it's in my thumbnail, and anybody that has been to Cal Dreamin' and has ridden it, can speak to it's performance.  I have it jetted for approx 400 feet above sea level, and drop to a 270 when at Johnson Valley/Hungry Valley.  Lot's of spare jets, too.  There's also an item about my rebuilding it, after it was sabotaged--it's on here, somewhere...

Anyway, if interested, text me at 619/300-2049; I'm in the San Diego area.  A rear end carrier with loading ramp, large square mount, comes with it, too, if wanted.

No on the oil vent tube. It goes into the small hole on top of the clutch actuator cover. That puts it directly over the chain so any spillage goes onto the chain. One of Yamahas’ better ideas.

Yeah, good point. The bike had been in storage for a long time (20 to 30 years) and I just got it running before winter when it started leaking oil from the clutch actuator shaft. Then it sat all winter, until now when I just recently changed the actuator seal then I found this oil leak. But before I found this oil leak it ran good and shifted well so, I feel like the internals are O.K.

I took a small wood dowel and lightly pushed on what looks to be (to me) the the (selector or shifter) shaft. It did not move, so I think (and hope) everything is O.K. I know I could only try pushing the shaft in one direction only but it felt pretty stationary. No telling if the damage was caused from the inside or outside to me.

But I will look at the shaft while shifting gears before I work on covering-up the hole with something.

I'll keep my head down. But if you pull it out i'm keen to know if its fatter & round ended both ends.
If not fatter it'd come out the mushroom end.
I think it 'is', but if i'm wrong could you lift out the actuator & somehow move the pushrod across.
Put compressed air down the actuator hole with the adjuster blocking the side hole--you'll soon know--should fly out.
Shine a light down actuator hole & see if the rod is obviously fatter. Or adjuster hole, might see better.

   i have the right washers in the right order now thanks guys. however the problem persists. i have fitted this tempary spacer on the cable and this is where the actuator arm needs to be at rest . pull the lever now and the clutch seems fine ?

according to the parts diagram only the thrust bearing and the thinner washer go on the main shaft then the clutch plate carrier and tab washer and nut . should i follow this part of the parts diagram but start the stack with a friction plate then steel etc ? does anyone have a picture of the actuator arm with cable connected in its resting position so i can rule out the wrong cable etc. thanks..