I'm near the end of a "resurrection" of my CT3 - rebuilt bottom end, new piston rings, replacing anything that needed it and a spit shine of everything else. Got everything buttoned up and put together and was able to get it started and running well on the stand in neutral (no idle though, think it needs another carb clean). When I got to the point of trying it on the road, as I released the clutch lever, the bike will move very slowly forward. As revs increase, speed doesn't increase at all. I can push the bike while it's in gear and not running, and it is slightly harder than when it is in neutral. This was strange to me because before my rebuild, I could shift into gear and was not able to move the bike at all.

So I thought it was an assembly error or that I could have been missing a washer/spacer somewhere, so I took the whole thing apart and made sure to watch a Dale Sweger video (this one  here ) while reinstalling. I measured all the friction plates and they were all within spec and nothing seemed to be out of place, but I'm still having the same issue after the rebuild.

A couple things to note:
1) When installing the clutch, the plunger on the clutch side was not flush with the shaft it sits in. If I took the left side cover off, I could push the plunger to be flush, but as soon as I installed it again, it pushed the plunger out. Is this normal? Could this be my issue? I ended up tightening down the springs/screws with the left side off, then installing the cover afterward.
2) Backing out the clutch adjustment screw did not change how far out the plunger sat. even with it backed out all the way it would not sit flush. Could the adjustment screw be misaligned somehow?

As always, thanks in advance. Would not have gotten this far without all the helpful folks on here.
 

No easy to guess just yet. But the plunger head doesn't neccessarily have to be flush, but needs clearance to the pressure plate before the actuator in the left cover starts pushing.
Sorry, bit hard to explain. Here's something to try--leave the left cover off [or very loose] so you know the actuator is out of the way. Then pop into gear & try pushing it.
If you want just start it minus the left cover then paddle along & pop into gear, see if it drives.
Just proving a point so as to at least eliminate the left side or positively say it 'is' the actuator left side issue.
I suspect something amiss in the clutch itself but hope i'm wrong as left side might be easier to sort.

You didn't end up with an extra ball bearing between the plunger and rod, did you?

Can you post some pictures of the left side case extra ball inside as mentioned also you loosen the left side 1/4 inch as RT325 mentioned 

Video neglects to show installation of initial thick washer.  Did you install it against the bearing in the case before the spacer and kick gear?

If not, it could cause this issue. He does talk about a 3mm washer later.

How thick are the friction discs?

He puts the discs in wrong...  first disc is friction, last is steel.

Did you use the rubbers?  Those can cause issues..

 

Good thought about leaving the left case off, will try that tonight.

Thick washer was always installed, after checking the manual I thought that could have been my issue too but not so lucky. 

I did use the rubbers, is there any harm leaving those out?

friction discs were right around 4 mm. Lowest was around 3.75mm. Manual calls for 4mm nominal and 0.4mm wear at a max

Yep leave the rubbers out if you're in there again.
In fact i just had a thought & without reading back--i'm not sure but guessing [Mark will know] that aftermarket plates might be full depth leaving no room for the rubbers anyway.
Therefore if they're in there they'd be holding the plates apart or doing a good job of trying to & almost succeeding if ya getting some sort of drive--like trying to but not quite.
Rubbers fit under the original fiber plates [has gap underneath for them]

Yes, many aftermarket friction plates have a smaller ID and rubber rings don't fit.

They can be installed twisted or swell up and the rubber rings will hold the discs apart. 

(Hint: Never wash the rubber rings in a solvent tank!)

Anyway, after an issue with the rubber rings many years ago, I left them out and the clutch worked great.  Since then I just leave them out.

Some people always leave them in. 



 

Alright I can now confirm that with the left side cover off the clutch is engaged and I cannot push it forward. Guessing there’s something with the cable connection gear being too far out. Going to try adjusting that. 

It was what I thought it was, gear was installed incorrecty and was too far out, so it was pushing the pushrod every time the cover was on. Runs and drives now. Thanks for all the feedback y’all.