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Does the concave look original because I don't think they were like that from new. If it were me I think I'd sit the detent against the small ball in the actuator. It'll be good. Big ball is 5/16--8mm but if you have the original then no worries. Just my opinion.

If easy pull levers only make the cable nipple closer to the pivot point them--'in my opinion'--it's a waste of money as reduces lift.
I guess if your clutch is perfect in how it releases then ok maybe a good idea.
But can't beat a good quality clutch cable & if possible a 4 start actuator from a RD350 or similar, all greased up along with a silky smooth cable--can't beat it.
Used to be great aftermarket cables out there with trick liners to glide better. Also run the cable in the least restrictive route possible so no sharp bends.

Sorry got me wires crossed. Thought you had it sitting against the nut & worried. Does look further out than i'd think but have you pulled the clutch lever in & its not fully back in the actuator. If it was ok before it'll be ok now & likely push it in slightly when assembled.

The transmission breather tube exits over the rear of the engine.  Is it coming from there?

An overfill could certainly cause it to overspill the breather because more oil is getting flung around and therefore more oil mist is created inside the tranny case.  It could then coalesce into drips within the breather tube.

I will bet any money that the techie who overfilled your oil drained it on its sidestand.  That will not drain the transmission fully.  If he then dumped in the specified amount of oil and did not bother to check it on the stick.  Voila. One overfilled transmission.

If a clutch is slipping, the very first thing to check, esp after a long lay up is that the cable is not binding and the actuator is not partially seized or misadjusted.  At 350 miles, it is very unlikely to be faulty clutch plates (unless the clutch cable was binding or misadjusted previously  ).

Even a cable that feels free off the bike can bind up internally under pressure. 
The only time I have ever encountered organic clutch friction discs going bad over time is when they have suffered water contamination.

One must learn to take the bad eBay sale’s that we dislike and stay positive for tomorrow the big sale actually comes ( if your line is always in the water ) the DT1 clutch actuator sold today to even things out - the laws of averages and misery.



good work asco

 

Ring sure isn't good & gap on that second ring would sit 180 from where it is when running in the bore. Not that it matters & i realize pic is only to show gap & not touching so shutup 'me'.
& ring peg has gone as TINKICKER #2 says.
How did it feel for compression on the kickstart.
I only ask because it looks like its been running for a while like that with top ring doing the job of two.
So thinking it might've stopped for some other reason even though it looks bad & likely needs reboring to make it right. Piston kit at least & a hone--scratch.
First thought is how tight was the flywheel to get off.
Was the locating key in one piece.
Need the correct puller to remove it unless it's loose & falls off pretty much.
Re the clutch pushrod. That type needs the rounded end against the actuator on the left of the motor. But to run it like 'that' it needs a ball where its now fused.
Looking on Partzilla it doesn't show one so i don't know!!.
Either they forgot to draw it with ball or it has a double ended rounded off rod.
The only reason i can think that it would fuse together is--having it like that with the flat end against the actuator--the actuator would be less than happy with it spinning.
So if the cable clearance etc was about zero & stopping it revolving then the mushroom rod the other end would revolve [if as i said cable was up tight] so it fused.
That'd be a 'first' but there's lots of first on this forum lol, They keep coming.
Welcome from NZ too.
I'll post this then fix mistakes before i loose it.

Now that's clever thinking MarkT. Good one. I would 'never' have thought of that haha.
Just hope it's not got 530 sprockets but unlikely or chain couldn't move sideway, albeit still be running close.
& lock washer probably wouldn't locate on the splines.
In light of this [& if cost is the issue] [& if it has 530 sprockets] you could shorten the spacer behind the sprocket a couple of mm & might move it over enough to clear.