For a while I'd noticed some wheel hop at 50+ MPH, and minor side to side wobble when rotating the wheel off the ground, but never addressed it (CT-1). Not having a truing stand, or any experience lacing or truing wheels, this is how I got it pretty damn close. After watching some videos, I ordered a Motion Pro ergonomic 5mm wrench, which fits these spokes. Then lifted the front wheel, secured it straight with tie downs between the handlebars and turn signals, and made a pointer using a hobby vise and plastic coffee stirrer. After much experimentation I began to get the hang of it, and now it's pretty good for an old Enduro, and there's no more wheel hop! 

Hey, that's impressive, good one!!.
Also very important to balance it for road use!!.
I had such a bad case of out of balance on my RT1 & almost galloped down the road.
I ended up with a crankpin taped to the spokes to cure it.
Can't remember what i did after that as a permanent cure but probably pulled the tire & found my missing tire lever inside haha.
Never had one that bad since.

Galloping is a good description for what is was doing when it was out of round. It probably is out of balance too, but not enough to see with the resistance of the bearings/grease. On a truing stand I'm sure it would.

Good job!  I'll be truing mine as soon as I can lace them, I've given it two shots at lacing so far but get about halfway through then figure out I've made a mistake and start all over

Hey Tony, hope everything‘s going good. I did it one time never again good luck.

A neighbor, who has laced quite a few, said when lacing a rim with new spokes make sure to do one at a time, so you can follow the old laced wheel as a guide (don't unlace both, then begin re-lacing them). Also install the inside spokes first, then outside, then begin snugging them. I honestly thought maybe my rim was bent or something, but once I settled in and began to understand the process, it became pretty easy to true it. Of course, at first I was doing it the exact opposite way I should've been, and making it worse 
 

In case anyone is wondering. Official yamaha spec for runout is max 2mm axial and 2mm radial.

2 and 2? is diculous

1 and 1 is acceptable neglecting weld line offset.

cliff

Mine was around 4mm off, both ways.

This'll have ya head scratching.
I put multiple pics up years ago but i bought a crashed GPX750 & in desperation to go riding it down the road i had a TT250 "17 wheel so used the rim & cut it then spread it to fit tightly around the broken "16 mag wheel. Worked perfect bolted in three places by memory, maybe had two close-by at the cut so 4 bolts i think.
Balanced it pretty good & didn't shake patter of wobble. Then raced off gingerly up n down our road.
After a while i sort of ignored it & went far too fast on it & lived to tell the tale.
Damn fast motor & very nice too.
Thought ya might get a laugh out of my stupidity lol seeing where talking perfect wheel balance & allowable wobble for them that haven't seen this before.
photos.app.goo.gl/Y2r7cWyHm45V3WKq7
photos.app.goo.gl/cd9rp2DXE9YUh7HX9
photos.app.goo.gl/RtBSAMkcE3nVbd9W7