I was wondering is there a list of Oil Pump Numbers and what motors they go to?
My pump for 1973 CT3 is starting to leak! I got a bunch of pumps but not sure what they go to. The one in the Bike is #168 . Does anyone know what numbers mean?
Thanks Mad

The pumps are generally identified by a dot of colored paint, not a number on the part. Somewhere here there is a chart with what the paint codes are.

I restore the pumps, so if you want to have your original pump restored, contact me at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

I just added a PDF of the following document to the tech library under service bulletins.

DEET Does Oil Pumps Right!

The pumps I have numbers on the black wheel were the cable hooks to. Beside the one my bike (168) I got a #364 and R1. Thanks for the info on color foresees mine is right (yellow)

Now that's something i've never seriously thought about. What 'are' the differences in pumps. Most of mine are on premix but thought the screw drive thingy was the same through the years so imagined anything would work but not tried swapping to prove a point. Looking at the number on the pump shown on here i'm now wondering if the difference is mainly in the shape of the ramp on the cable ramp thingy, as in bringing maximum stroke up earlier or later in relation to throttle opening. Am assuming all full strokes are the same stroke length & same quantity pumped. Thinking back to early TZ or TD road racer--a guy at work bought a new TD250 if that's what it was called--& had the pump on full stroke, came with no cable roller just full stroke all the time "plus" 20/1 fuel mix & 'very' cold plugs, 10's or 11's, you'd think he'd have a plug oiling problem--well he did lol, was a pain in the bum, hand up on the line as it went onto one pot & the start flag about to drop. Once it's throat was cleared & into full song racing on a fast circuit it was ok--just getting to that point. Think they had a problem of seizing at the drop of a hat--the old one hand on the clutch trick while racing. Suppose they still wanted plenty of oil going in under a closed throttle just to be 'sure to be sure'. Food for thought? for the day!!.

If I'm not mistaken, I believe the plunger shaft diameter is different between the larger CC bikes and the smaller CC bikes

There is also a difference between some models in the thread pitch on the drive shaft. For instance, on a DT it is a coarse thread and on my MX it is the same "looking" pump with a fine thread pitch.

This is the proper drive for the MX pump which also fits the 74-76 250/360/400 bikes.




This next shot is of a pair, the left one is out of an AT1 pump which has similar thread pitch to the MX, however, also has a threaded end to attach a gear. (part number 214-13175-01-00) This shaft fits most of the early architecture bikes up through 72.

The right one is out of a later model DT 400 ( pump with the coarser thread which also appears to be reversed from the AT. It does not have the threaded end for the gear but just a machined end. (This is part number 363-13175-00-00). which appears to fit the DT 250/360/400 from 74-76 plus the SC500!



The bottom line is that there are a lot more subtleties to oil pumps than meets the untrained eye, and keeping Mr. DEET on your speed dial is a good practice.

Just adding more to this.

Bulletin # 394 for the '73 pumps shows that the CT3 pulley has a 364 on it.