Just looked at Gibbs site and found this:

"Bonds with paint to penetrate and protect.  Surfaces treated with Gibbs can be PAINTED.  YES!  You read that right!  Gibbs does not contain silicone, graphite or Teflon.  Paint can be applied right over surfaces treated with Gibbs!"


I have painted over Gibbs...  it's about the only reasonable thing still available to prep magnesium for paint. 

Hey Mark, sorry for jumping in but I have a question. When applying Gibbs to say an entire gas tank, How do you apply it? Do you just spray it on and let dry or what??? Thanks

Spray and wipe is what I've done...  never on a tank (yet) though. 

I appreciate the information MarkT. I've been looking at reviews of Gibbs, and I see people have used it on their old vehicles right on the paint to restore the paint, and to prevent the bare metal parts from corroding. I may go ahead and get some and give it a shot. Seems like it's a very multi-purpose product, that can be used on many surfaces. Can't seem to find it available in any local stores though, have to order online.

Just update this, I got a can of Gibbs a few weeks ago and have been using it, and it's great stuff! I put it on all the painted surfaces, and it especially made the rusty frame look much nicer. Really brought out the remaining black paint, and reduced the rusty look. it's safe on plastic and rubber as well. I used it yesterday on a badly rusted Crescent wrench, and within a minute had it working perfectly. It hasn't worked miracles on the tank, but it doesn't seem to harm the paint, and it looks like it may have stabilized the rust.

I have no idea what's in the product, but I thought it might be like liquid wrench, which would probably damage the paint. This seems pretty safe and innocuous, and it's much more pleasant to use than liquid wrench.

Just wanted to revive this thread and see if anyone else has used GIBBS on their gas tank or other painted surfaces. If so what are your findings??????  Thanks

Spensive but seems to work OK and no smell.
Sprayed my car door rust and paint, no problem.

cliff

It IS expensive, which is why I only ordered one can (it's often sold in two can sets at a better price per can) but now wish I'd ordered two because I'm using it quite a bit on other things as well. I really like that it's basically odorless, does no harm, and has tons of uses. I've also decided for sure not to repaint my bike. I'm going to keep it as a patina rider. I just go over it occasionally with Gibbs, let it sit for a while, then buff it out.

Early on I did strip and repaint the rear fender and chain guard, but I know if I send that tank and headlight out to be repainted, I'm going to be sucked down that expensive and time consuming rabbit hole of making it all factory new.

I'd far rather just ride it, and all the money saved can be put into it mechanically if something breaks down. That said, I have nothing at all against anyone that wants to completely refurbish their bikes, I love seeing the meticulously refurbished bikes at the local vintage bike meets.

I'm a fan of the "soap and water" restorations that retains the patina. 

My MG1-T was chalky and faded but after a little elbow grease and Meguirs looks pretty good from 10 feet away.  Not going to win any shows but I like it. 

On the Gibbs...  I got a case of 6 delivered for $60 a couple years ago...  trying to remember where I got it.  Chemical stuff is getting more expensive.  Used to buy cases of contact cleaner for like $2 a can...  now it's like $8 a can for same stuff. 

 

It was 2018 and Amazon.  Now the 6 pack is $77 which is not too much more.  Or 12 pack for $128. 

But I still have 4 cans left so good for a while yet. 

Another miracle chem is Caig Deoxit.  Very pricey but amazing stuff on connections and switches.  Has saved me tons of time and fixed several electrical issues.  Including getting a old surplus oscilloscope working like new with a couple of spritzes into the control knobs.