If I understand these things correctly (not guaranteed! ), then you can still use a tang, but make sure that the analogue ohms meter is zeroed with this attached.

No idea if and how you can zero a digital meter!

yes that makes sense, basically calibrating the meter, zeroing the  meter i undersatand is setting it to be infinity when no continuity with the red wire attached to the black wire from coil (& black earth wire from checker not attached to earth) to any conductive item am using to get into the spade connector to get a reading
 

imgur.com/a/YdKVxZp

ok so its blowing smoke a bit but i think that will clear one warmed up
seems to idle really well
quick ride around car park & occasionally revs will drop like it wants to stall could be needing a carb clean i guess or remaining timing issue

Don't be surprised if it smokes worse when hot as what is soaked into the exhaust internal packing starts to smoulder & a very long highway ride would be needed to dry that out if ya dint get arrested first for pollution smoke.

Hi thanks again all
Am still getting some slap back on kick start and am now considering it might be the spring on the kick return I wrapped it under and around the pillar but can anyone advise if it has to go another full turn around? It seemed like it had enough torsion to return but it's possible it needs another full wrap around as I don't think it's clearing the clutch pinion gear quick enough?

Its job is to return the lever.  I don't think you're supposed to wind it tighter.  I never have.

If things are working right, once the engine starts, the rotation should instantly disengage the gear.  In fact, after it starts, you can keep your foot on the lever and not let it return and that won't affect the gear disengaging. 

Maybe something is spaced wrong or the gear is getting hung up on the spiral splines it rides on? 

Thanks yes that's possible I would say return is sluggish on kick start so will grab a new spring as a precaution  it's one of those issues where it works fine when apart but as soon as back together the problem arises again

Or maybe something is still off on timing and you have kick back.  Didn't you have the timing advance that could move more than the alignment hole? 

Could be someone's uninformed attempt at modification for "more power"...  not realizing that the advance mechanism on this bike is just for starting?  (And that two strokes don't like or need more advance at high RPM like a four stroke)

It's critical that the lever is fully advanced when setting timing...  if it can go past the hole then either you need to investigate why and fix it, or hold it past the hole somehow when setting timing.

Ok so after getting it back together and running it was getting missing and random cut outs which traced back to a faulty condenser ( the new one put in after rebuild) replaced  with the old one and it's running sweet again now 
unsure of this was causing kick back issue as am just bumping it for now as still a bit hesitant on using the kick start but am "fairly confident" the condenser was the root cause of my timing & running  issues. I found when I put some pressure on the condenser top it was affecting the readings from the point checker so was probably throwing it all out when trying to get it timed right