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Flywheel Installation Tricks?

  • Bdubya
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Flywheel Installation Tricks? was created by Bdubya

Took the flywheel off a '74 DT250 that I'm restoring.  There was some rust in the case and on the magnets, and the points needed a light sanding.  Got everything cleaned up and now I'm ready to reinstall the flywheel.  How do I make sure that the flywheel is lined up with the key on the shaft?  I kind line it up by eye, but as you go to put the flywheel on, the magnets take over and pull the cover on.  I can't really tell if it's 100% lined up.  I start torquing down on the nut, but it gets pretty tight and I still have a good ways to go before the flywheel is fully seated.  I'm nervous to torque down too hard because I'm not totally sure everything is lined up correctly.

Any tips for ensuring alignment before wrenching down on the shaft nut?

Also, I only have the nut and a split washer.  The service manual mentions a tapered washer but I seem to be missing that.  Is there really anything special about that washer or do I just need a flat washer that fits?
 
23 Apr 2023 16:14 #1

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Replied by Ht1kid on topic Flywheel Installation Tricks?

I put mine at 12 o’clock slide it in you should be able to see it’s all the way in yes there should be a thick washer    and a lock washer 
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23 Apr 2023 17:22 #2

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Replied by RT325 on topic Flywheel Installation Tricks?

So long as crank key is tight in the crank slot then ya can't go wrong. Should just pop on [all the way] & feel its located by a bit of a wiggle/wriggle the tighten up--very tight.
23 Apr 2023 18:45 #3

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Replied by RT325 on topic Flywheel Installation Tricks?

i was forgetting its points ignition so be careful getting past the points heal without catching it.
23 Apr 2023 18:48 #4

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Replied by MarkT on topic Flywheel Installation Tricks?

Yes, you should be able to tell it's on all the way before tightening nut.

Flat washer is hardened. Make sure lock washer hasn't left a burr inside flywheel recess before putting in correct flat washer.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
23 Apr 2023 20:16 #5

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Replied by Bdubya on topic Flywheel Installation Tricks?

Good tips everyone. Thank you. Found the washer online so I'll acquire that first. Checked the flywheel recess and it seems fine.
25 Apr 2023 08:07 #6

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Replied by Yamfan on topic Flywheel Installation Tricks?

If the key is loose in the crank, Loctite it in. Will be far easier to fit the flywheel.
25 May 2023 11:54 #7

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Replied by MarkT on topic Flywheel Installation Tricks?

I don't use Loctite. Darn key can be nearly impossible to remove sometimes even without Loctite. I think it was in one of the Yamaha manuals I saw the technique I use if the key is loose enough to fall out... simply use a center punch to put a little dimple on the lower half of the key. Problem solved.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
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25 May 2023 12:21 #8

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Replied by Bdubya on topic Flywheel Installation Tricks?

Thanks guys. The key wasn't loose so no problem there. I was able to get the flywheel on, just made double sure I was lined up and it worked out.
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29 May 2023 09:42 #9

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Replied by asco on topic Flywheel Installation Tricks?

Just a tip. Before removing the flywheel get a reference of how much clearance from the flywheel edge to the stator plate? Most likely 1/4” gap. It’s best to use a flashlight if you can to line things up - then spin it counter clockwise a few times loose before adding washers and the fastener.

a
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1971 CT1-C (BRANDY)
1970 DT1-C (MONICA)
1972 AT2M (ZIFFLE)
1970 CT1-B (HULK)
1971 DT1E (GINA)
1970 CT1-B (CLIDE)
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29 May 2023 18:10 #10

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