Oh no!  Glad you caught it quick!

Just FYI, you'll probably want to replace the big end crank pin, bearing, and rod as a set.  Once they run-in, the rod and pin become the bearing races.  You might get away with it on the small end that doesn't move much...  but the big end is pretty critical and probably not worth the risk. 

I had a friend once who was doing brakes on his car and decided to replace the front wheel bearings.  Then he decided that the outer races pressed in the hub looked great so he just replaced the inner cone races.  About 3,000 miles later one of the bearings failed on the freeway.  No real damage, just lots of smoke and a tow home.  He was upset because a new bearing failed so quick.  The store sent them in for warranty and Timken came right back and said the cause of failure was using a used race with a new bearing.  They even sent a nice picture chart with bearing failures shown and descriptions of what causes that type of damage. 

Yeah it was not unexpected but was disappointing, I figured something had to be damaged after the runaway throttle, just wish it was as simple as piston and rings - that I can do. I need to find someone who can do it since the deepest I've gone into these is clutch and crank seals. I did find a rod set on ebay that includes rod, pin and big end bearing.