Sounds like we both went about it in the same way. Less than one turn because a second revolution was too much. As long as it pulls the guide back into the slots it should be good to go. That was my thoughts too.

Replacing TT/XT Engine Case Bearings
Bearings should be removed with the cases heated up in the kitchen oven as soon as the wife is out of town; 120°F shd be fine. In many cases the transmission bearings will just drop out; the main bearing seats have steel outer races, that's why heat sometimes doesn't help that much here.
Assembly procedure: Heat left main bearing to 120°F drop it on the crankshaft. Let it cool down in the freezer. Heat left case half, install the cold crankshaft with its bearing and drop the other two previously frozen bearings in place. Heat right case half, drop frozen main bearing in it plus the other two cold bearings. Heat inner race of right main bearing and use a Tusk brand crankcase puller to pull the two halves together. Caution: Put the engine cases in a cold oven and then heat them up to about 125F. Putting them in a preheated oven makes the thin areas around the case screws get hot faster than the beefier areas around the bearings and could result in stress cracks. These days, I use a heat gun to avoid a war with my third wife over this same issue. Important: Spray WD40 into the cold bearing races after installation to avoid flash rust caused by condensation.

So my cms package arrived with my new OS piston, wrist pin/bearing/clips and magneto side seal WHICH HAS GARTER SPRINGS ON BOTH LIPS.

Can you endurologists please take a look at the markings and confirm that this is a proper seal since this is the one that gets roasted abs likely caused my meltdown?

Also - do the raised ribs face the crank? Unlike the clutch side seal I got from enduronut this one doesn’t say “this side towards crank”

The "castle turret" bumps go in first.

They are there to stop the seal from being driven in too far which will cut off flow of oil to outside of bearing.

Thanks
Do they appear to be proper type?
Trying to eliminate every possible way to melt engine again!

They look like the correct "SW" type.

So after being dense about transmission shims I got everything perfect and put trans, crank and case together.

I bought a Tusk crank install tool, it was very good quality. It had the M12x1.25 fitting which made pulling the mag end of crank into L case a snap.

No fitting for the right side crank with what looks like an M18. So I bought an extra crank primary gear nut and after I filed to hex to round it fit perfectly into tool! My fear based on degree of tug required to pull crank into mag side was that same axial load could cause the wide slot that drives the oil pump to collapse. Slot measured 0.288” so I tapped a 0.250 piece of key stock with a piece of 0.020 and 0.018 shim into slot. Then R side case - which I warmed to 200F to further reduce interference went on perfectly!

I applied the Yamabond4 with a small kiddy paintbrush like I’ve see Allen mallar (YOU GOT TO CHECK THIS GENIUS OUT ON YTuBe) do and I am feeling so proud of having no mess all over! I torqued the bolts to 85 in-lbs and will continue on once I get a snap ring from partzilla and jug back from Q&E machine shop - very cool place - later this week.

In the meantime I am cleaning everything to perfection and finding corks abs plugs and misc crapola to make my pressure tester!

I appreciate everyone’s advice, so far so good!

No drips - must be a full moon
Using 1200F Krylon

Nice work!!!

Yes looking good. Just so ya now , the side bearing--with case--should just slide over the crank with little effort as is held tight by the nut, not like the mag side which relies on being a tight fit. Anyway--you're ahead of that & looking good.