I have a 76 dt125 starter/generator type, I’m not getting power across the solenoid, I replaced the solenoid, I turn on the key, have power going to both leads but no power to the terminal, battery is full, I push the start button and it does nothing, I’m pulling my hair out, wiring all looks right against the schematic, does anyone have any input.....

There are wiring diagrams and troubleshooting in the Tech Library, in the Service Manuals section, specifically for your bike.

Nutshelled though, the big cable from the battery, the red/white (R/W) wire & blue/white (L/W) wire should all have 12V key on. So check that. If yes, then when you push the start button, that grounds the L/W wire to the handlebar, closing the relay contacts in the starter relay, which directs the 12V to the starter/alternator through the other big cable. When you press the start button, do you lose 12V on the L/W wire? If yes, like most of us resurrecting electric start 125's, the starter/alternator brushes are probably worn past their limit and need replacing.

There’s power to Solenoid except to the green wire that goes to gen. If the brushes are bad will it not get power across the terminals, there is power to the leads (blu/white, red/white) I replaced solenoid with a new to me solenoid, just can’t get power to side of solenoid that feeds gen, I have checked the wiring it’s all good, I will check brushes, I had it running put in new points, cleans carb, the usual tune up it ran fine except when in 2nd or 3rd it would sputter if I rolled on too much throttle,

When you push the button the solenoid should click then the 12volts from the battery should come out the other side of the solenoid & head down 'that' heavy wire to wherever it ends at the armature field coils. Not sure what color but i'd think heavy red without looking. But then again i seem to remember a heavy green thinking back 50 years--now forgotten the question--old age lol. If solenoid doesn't activate then there's an issue with the little wires that activate it--start button etc which 'i think' might be wring' just earths it so therefor the other little wire should be live--so one live & other to button to earth it to activate it. Don't take that as gospel as without finding a diagram i could be wrong. If it was an old solenoid that clicked but didn't transfer power across then it'd be fizzed up inside on the bridging plate--but yours is new so won't be that. If yours 'is' transferring power down the the armature stuff then brushes are my next thought. But if they're still under brush spring pressure even though worn then it won't be a brush problem so then it gets complicated.

Ok, I am fairly mechanical but wiring trips me up sometimes I thought that it would be wiring, just getting feedback from someone helps tremendously, thank you for your patience

i'm pretty good at confusing things lol Lot of different diagrams here by the looks just doodling googling away.www.dansmc.com/genstarter.htm

I have the clymer, book so I have that info, it’s just as I said though, wiring is a weak point in my bag of tricks

You may simply have a starter button problem Dirt Floor, to test it clip your 12 volt DC electrical meter one side to to solenoids red white and one side to blue white.
With key on meter should say no volts.

Pushing starter button meter should say 12 volts as the starter button grounds out blue white.

Don’t leave ignition key on (without engine running ) for long time as ignition coil can overheat.

i meant to say earlier, if you simply bridge the solenoid terminals with a screwdriver then the motor should spin. That then confirms there's something not right with the solenoid but if it doesn't spin the crank then you might have two problems. should hear the solenoid click as the internal plate lifts to do its bridging job.