Does that apply to all other Yamaha enduros same set up ???

Excellent advice was given by Easy-X early on... get it running good stock and then make your air filter and jetting changes. That's the easiest way to tell if your mod is causing a goofy jetting or running issue.

And yes, two strokes can be very sensitive to inlet changes... piston ports maybe a little more than reed valves... having a stubby, short filter with a hard cap can create a pressure wave resonance at certain RPM(s) that will make the bike impossible to jet to run cleanly through the RPM range.

WARNING bullshit opinion piece follows....

Cone Filters

Sticking a K&N filter atop the Weber on my old VW Golf was super kewl And at that size you get a lovely induction tone, 10/10 would do again

However, I've had no luck with the things on smaller engines, even 4-strokes. Air boxes on motorcycles always seem such convoluted things, why do manufacturers make them so big and ugly?! Shocking news, as Mark stated, they actually do it for a reason! We not all riding around on 2-wheeled turbines, 2/4 stroke engines have a pulse. 2-strokes especially exploit this pulse to increase performance as evidenced by the elaborate expansion chambers in exhaust systems. My suggestion, if you really must mess with the air intake is look at velocity stacks with a mesh grill but unless the exhaust is working as well as the air intake, what would be the point?

Sorry, I don't like cone filters. /rant:off

That being said, stock carb, stock airbox, stock exhaust system: get this working 100% as a baseline to start with. Then if you must change out the air intake setup you at least have in the back of your mind exactly how the engine should perform across rev ranges, on and off load to compare to.

Oil Pumps versus Premix

Well this is an area that I was initially ignorant of. There's no style points regarding the pump itself but I suppose it goes hand-in-hand with an airbox delete (the oil tank.) As pointed out to me, by Mark and others, at idle the pump mediates oil to fuel >100:1 and at full-load ~16:1. That's quite a range! It doesn't sound like you'll be using the bike heavily so 40:1 premix would get you by but if you're aiming to throw the thing at some 1 in 3 rock faces I'd reconsider.

If you must, oil pump delete blanking plates for a lot of 2-stroke Yamahas of this era are similar and cheap. Just get a kit that comes with its own gasket and bolts, the original bolts will probably be too long. Also, don't forget to properly blank off the oil feed nipple on the carb - surprising amount of air gets sucked in otherwise!

I'm pretty sure the 1976 DT175 originally had the toothed metal pegs stock. Earlier models had the rubber ones... they were tiny... but no rubber.

Anyway, Yamaha used very similar pegs for decades... I think Hammer used modern PW50 pegs and they were a straight bolt on. His bike is an RT3 but it takes the same pegs as the pre-76 DT175 so good chance they'll fit.

You are right. Again.... the 76 DT175 has serrated pegs.

I got a parts bike dt125b with the same small pegs. Original or not, I don’t know.