And consider fitting a voltage regulator - see link.

yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/service-bul...e-voltage-regulators

By memory the battery on the DT360A is longer by about half, & skinnier too than the one above. Above one is more RT2 or models like that. Can see by the area it fits in that it's just a bigger capacity no doubt with a bit more in reserve--still 6 volt though.

Yes! +1 for the Yuasa NP4-6. I've been using them for years. I currently have them in my 250A and my XT500E. I pretty much ignore them, no maintenance, and they last for at least 5 years usually more.

Yep regulator is a good idea or might have the battery bulging at the seams at high revs. 360A might have one fitted anyway.

Thanks everyone. I don't have spark at this time and needed to get my thoughts in order as I try to tackle the issue. I tested the pulcer coil before I installed it and also the ignition coil. Both tested okay. I have extra CDI and other parts from a second bike so I guess its time to start trading out parts until I get spark.

Source coil is more often than not--the [source] of the problem. If i take an SC500 which has the same principle full flywheel cdi ignition minus lighting coils. My specs say only 204 ohms [which aint enuf in my books] for the source coil but we used to get them rewound to a higher spec, probably 350 ohms or more as they were terrible to start & used to sneeze so had to spin them as hard as you could to get a starting spark. Anyway, say 85 for the pulser, white/red to white/green. don't let me confuse things too much [or MarkT will tell me off lol].

I am two years into this project, with some health issues along the way, and I don't remember any of the measurements I made. I typically would read a post and comments that was relevant to the electronics and test the part at that time. I will probably change the CDI and if that doesn't work I will pull the flywheel and start testing each component again. Better than sitting around watching television.