When your under stimulated and your mind drifts to your Enduros you ponder things such as this:
On a fresh DT360 rebuild, should the head be removed and the cylinder retorqued after several heat cycles and some miles or is only the head of concern?

I am wondering the same thing. I don't think many did retork back in the day. My clymer says to, but it's alot of work if unneeded.

Leave it be unless you didn't tighten it properly in the first place.. The other thing i do if retorquing is crack it back enough to crack it 'just free' then bring it up to torque or you don't get a proper torque. Often the stud will just twist a bit [on small studs] & clicks the torque wrench without really moving the nut. Bigger nuts will just click without moving but if you crack it back & bring it up you'll be surprised how much further it goes to reach torque. [in my opinion].

After the 1st heat cycle, let it cool & then back each nut about a 1/2 a turn & re torque each bolt to full torque. Do these one at a time, it is not necessary to loosen all at once.

So I am thinking mine were loose. Didn't use a torque wrench, instead I put a 12mm wrench in between the fins and guessed the torque. Not something I would even at all reccomend. I did use the torque wrench upon assembly. Edit- so I am mentioning this now I had started to get an high eratic idle on start up that came from no where. Kept playing with the throttle cable. Even though spraying eether around the base gasket proved nothing or did not effect the idle, tightening the base cylinder nuts cured the problem. So I will probably adjust the air fuel mixture again because these settings were probably thrown off as the eratic idle caused me to compensate by adjusting them. Food luck on yours. Thank you also for pointing me to my base gasket leak also.

Thanks for the guidance gentlemen. I'll do the head using the crack your nuts method and let the cylinder be. Fortunately it is less painful than it sounds.

I should point out my base gasket was a non standard .75 mm thick gasket material I got from Auto zone vs. the standard .5 mm Yami oem.

I bought an Snap-On open end torque wrench years ago for use on an engine I was racing that didn't have access in the fins for a socket like Yamaha did... has a ratchet head attachment or you can swap to different size open end wrench adapters. Not sure if they still make something like that and if they do it's probably $$$ these days.

Tohnichi makes very nice ones...



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Or for a lot less money, motion pro makes a nifty torque wrench adapter...

Great find! Same principle as the Snap On one I have.

Motion Pro tool is what I use on modern water cooled cylinders...

On the finned air cooled cylinders there wasn't enough clearance to get a ring wrench over the nut. Had to be an open end. (And I'm not sure Motion Pro made those 30+ years ago!)

Wow. That was a long time ago. Now I feel old.