Just started to fix up a DT250 1974. Trying to get it to run initially. The bike is in real good condition but has been sitting for 30 odd years. Some one has stuffed around with it big time. Have got most things back to factory settings as a starting point but have now arrived at timing. stator has been moved. Checking other posts on this forum and it is stated stator should be left at factory settings and timing only done by points. Can anyone tell me what the factory settings were ie distances the three screws are from end of grooves. This may save a novice a lot of stuffing around. Thanks. Previously bought a DT360 which I had for years wish I had put it in the shed as they are hard to get in Australia Now

Try setting it in the middle of the slots.

Centre nearly worked. As close as I can get to being timed now is : points open 3.3 mm before TDC and I am at my min points opening so tomorrow, if I get time, I will try rotating the stator a tad counterclockwise as this should retard the timing a bit if I have this worked out. Satator was all the way clockwise when I started no wonder the poor old girl wouldn't fire

Here's a DT250A I just opened up...

Nice!

Thanks for the photo, still not quite getting there, when I get the timing spot on the points are only opening about half what they should. New genuine yamaha points which came with the bike, the box looks like it is as old as the bike. If I can,t figure it out in another couple of hours I will invest in another set of points as that might be the problem

Rotate the stator a little clockwise past centered. That will make the points have a wider maximum gap at the same timing setting.

Ok, maybe its me--but if you move the plate "Counter Clockwise" [to the left when looking at it] then you'll have to set the points wider to get them to open at the 3.2mm mark [Mark]. OP is saying [if i'm reading it right] that set as it is, the points are well under 15 at max opening to get the 3.2 start point.?

Oh, & just want to be sure the crank key is ok, which it will be if you've not had it running. But most important the flywheel is tightened securely [tight] when finished.

I see what you're saying Morley... I might be mixed up and the plate needs to rotate counterclockwise to get the gap wider at the same timing setting...

Thanks everyone for your advise, moved the stator only a small amount off centre and managed to get the timing spot on, even the mark on the flywheel lines up with the tab. Had rebuilt carby about two years ago before breaking my leg so she sat for a further two years, so she has not been going for over 30 years. Two kicks with no choke when one with choke on and away she went. Clutch was seized but with a bit of a run I ws away. Rode about 1 Km and when I returned the clutch was working. Bike is completely original right down to the tyres, was purchased in Japan by an Australian who owned it from new but only rode it for a couple of years then left it in the shed. I've even managed to find most of the tools for the tool kit. I had a 360 in 1974 and hung onto the tools when I was broke and had to sell her.