Hi everyone , got the bike running and riding but it seems a little sluggish in low rpm s . I've never adjusted timing on a cdi bike. It also starts cutting out about the time it's just starting to scream. Going to pick up some jets this week to play around with. Has been switched to premix and probably getting more usable fuel. Any ideas appropriated and as always thanks in advance. 

Service manual supplement for your bike is in the Tech Library has timing instructions.  Use the one that is US only.  "80 DT125G DT175G Sup Service Manual.pdf"

Generaly timing is the last thing to need attention on a cdi bike if its as it came from the factory.
Unless crank key is broken but there'd be a slim chance of it running at all so unlikely.

First thought is how does compression feel on the kick lever.
125's were never that strong at low revs in a high gear, but depend what you mean by 'a little sluggish'.
I doubt its exhaust related or you'd be talking lack of performance up in the revs--not wanting to rev freely.

I think u r correct  after adjustment on float it tops out ok just stumbling n low rpm range  bike has throttle slide needle with only one groove for clip. Air screw is blocked with brass plug. I trimmed the rubber spacer to drop the needle and it did help. Still hard to start when engine is cold but one quick spray to filter and good for most the day thinking of drilling that brass plug out to gain access to air screw and getting a needle with several groves for clip adjustment. Any thoughts? Thanks
 

I'm not up on the play with non adjustable carburettors, but in light of that i wonder it the bike is somehow restricted in lots of ways like cylinder porting & exhaust etc & maybe ignition advance curve--if it has one at all--might retard at revs till kill any power it was hoping to release.
I dunno, just wildly guessing.
I recall a japan domestic market gsxr 750 suzuki my son bought about 25 years ago. Beautifull as new import & ran perfect but underpowered.
Had small exhaust headers & just about everything you could think of--compression, cam lift & timing--carburettors etc, was never going to be a rocket.
Same with a yamaha TZR250 a workmate bought. Spent so much time & money trying to get it up to the specs of the export models then gave up & sold it.
Sorry, probably no help at all with your problem & just reminiscing.
To add, i'm just thinking if also the needle is non-adjustable then they're keen on not having things played with.

I’m sure it was plugged for emissions my Harley was the same way just drilled it out and adjusted it correctly and ran a lot better 

you might find specs for your bike from another market , like Australia for example , would have had an adjustable needle .
If you could get one of those adjustable needles , you might be able to tune your carb .

They had completely different carbs in other markets.  And unless you find a needle with the correct profile and diameters with more grooves, you could make things worse or even damage the engine. 

Are you sure you have the slide assembled correctly?  Or maybe someone modified it?  I don't recall a spacer you could trim under the slide needle?  There is a goofy needle retainer set up that maybe someone put together wrong?  Pics would help a lot. 

Remove the idle air screw cap.  Completely disassemble and clean thoroughly...  this means removing the needle jet, pilot jet, air screw, everything.

Check end of choke plunger to make sure seal is good.

Check the pilot jet.  Should be a 20.  Often they run better with a 22.5 or even a 25.  Same style pilot as Yamaha Banshee, buy original Mikuni.  It's a TINY almost microscopic hole. 

You should never have to drop the slide needle lower.  They are already lean.  Get some small washers...  they make them for this purpose...  to shim the needle up if needed.  I have never had to do this on a 80 175, I've never owned an 80 125.  But again, might be assembled wrong or someone added a spacer or something. 

Just my thoughts so don't read too much into it--but shimming the needle 'could' ends up with it sitting hard against the plate or fraction higher & plate rocking.
I think its important to have the needle floating in the slide & the needle jet.
Or am just being pedantic in old age, maybe so.
Other thing is--are you chasing a carb problem looking for performance or is there possibly another cause.

RT325,  look at the parts diagram...  it's one of those complicated "need a screwdriver to access" systems and the needle actually has a little top hat and spring assembly.  Shimming a little works fine on that model. 

On a standard carb, probably not so much.