Hi all,

I've test fit a new Slinky Glide front brake cable which was supposed to fit my '77 DT100 (Australia). However, the adjuster barrel at the front brake side is M8, whereas the adjuster seems to be an M6.
Could I drill out the M6 hole, and retap to M8?
If that's a no go, is it easy to remove and refit the cable ends?

Cheers,

For you to decide if there's enough meet to tap it to 8mm but it's what i'd do if safe. But first hold the cable against as it would sit just to be sure inner & outer lengths are in the ball park for adjustment--might need to move the arm on the spline etc depending on lining wear. Is it this one below--looks great. Removing cable nipples & re-soldering is a bit of an art but gets better with practice. I've been practicing for i guess 60+ years from when i starting work haha. If the lower nipple is brass & soldered then great but a lot of cables have that alloy crap formed on the cable. In saying 'that' i see a floating cable end in the pic so the nipple should be brass & soldered on, same at the top end. So if ya wanted to go that way i'd heat it in a flame & move it up then cut off the flared bit the reheat & pull nipple off. Then do whatever you plan then slide nipple on which might need heating or residual solder drilled to size. Then i dip in flux & solder the cable then heat nipple & pull to almost the end & let solder bite. Then support it good & punch flare the end, then reheat & get solder through--should be through anyway & end up with a dob on the end but visible both ends of nipple. Has to fit back into floating cable end too & excess solder hinders things. I dip in liquid flux often on reheat to soften the solder for each part of the operation. Man that sounds complicated sorry. Just tap it to 8 & carry on haha.
www.wemoto.com.au/bikes/yamaha/dt_100_h_...ble_by_slinky_glide/