I have video but according to this site message I get - video content still can’t be uploaded 

I could send directly you I suppose!

I checked the OEM stock jetting from manufacturer technical data and crossed it with the stock jetting with both Mikuni current data  Niche and Sudco - all confirmed what I thought is that the only difference was the jet needle so I purchased the correct needle when I purchased the carb.

as far as still loaded up I would like to know best ways to clear - I have been kicking over with plugs out and throttle wide open 

thanks again for the help 

If its acting flooded up & you can get it started it should clear pretty good in about 20-30 seconds of full throttle just bringing it up & back bit by bit until it revs out clean.
Which has me thinking maybe its something else entirely, like a crank seal out or partly out at an angle on the right side & its just gasping deeply trying to get going.
Not sure if they can fully escape on the left behind the stator plate but similar running story with less smoke than the right--lot less smoke.
Re the video i just put mine on youtube then make them unlisted & link them to here. Took me a while to get the hang of it.

thank you - I can only get it to fire - not run with this new carb - 26mm Mikuni set up as an OEM - leading me to believe that I have to open this new carb up and check the float level and the jetting just be sure what was purchased is what's inside. 

the old carbs I have and tried are 30mm Mikuni oem from the 1976 Yamaha 125 mx - that one I could get the bike to run for a little bit - maybe a min or two but after that it would race with no control which led me to believe it was crank seals - I have changed those out as well.

Recently worked on timing and points and found that there is play in the crank bearings which i am sure can throw off the point setting - regardless the bike has run with this and should run again - but I will need to do the lower end bearings for sure now. 

Spark seems to good and solid - main coil meets the oms spec on the primary and secondary - plug wire and cap (new ngk) are passing voltage and meter if i remember 5K which i believe if the resistance of the cap.

I am assuming the source coil is ok but have not tested it as I do not know the electrical spec of that coil.  

I will do a compression test and spark test this week on the ATM2 as well as try the carb on a 1974 125mx I have that I haven't gotten around to try and start yet 

Good thing is I know she will run - she did before, and she fires now - i am back thinking that I have a carb issue - providing too much fuel.

hoping via this forum someone will bring up something that is obvious that I am missing! 

Once Again - I thank you all for your help!

There was no manual with carb - I thought it was odd but it’s a carb - not a big deal 

I did open it up and set the float to what I found was spec for the bike and that carb in 1972 

If you have any significant play in the crank bearings, then there are certainly going to be running problems.

Main and big end bearing wear, is much more common on 2T engines, with the increased use of ethanol bearing fuels, which degrades the lubricant.

If it has never run since you have owned it, then you may well need to replace the main bearings?

To try and get it running, you will need to get all the unburnt fuel out of the cases. Its possible to get most of it out, by kicking over, with plug out, fuel turned off, throttle wide open.

When it seems like all the fuel is out, fit a new plug, take the air cleaner boot off, squirt some brake cleaner, into the intake, then kick with throttle wide open. If it doesn't start then, either the ignition is bad, or bottom end wear means the cases aren't sealing properly.

Good stuff 
she has run recently despite the crank bearings- they will be replaced 

I would like to get her running before I do a complete tear down 

new plugs and starting fluid / break cleaner in on the list 

she will fire on 1st or 2nd kick after drying out over night - but she settle in and actually run - even running bad would be good 

thank you 
 

Try brake cleaner and a new plug, or heat one of the plugs you have up with a blow lamp, to burn the crap off it.

Additives in modern fuel tend to earth plugs out, down the insulators.

If it runs good for a few seconds with brake cleaner, then the carb is your problem.

will do. 
carb is brand new mikuni  (not a knock off) jetted to OEM specs for the bike in 1972 - I checked it yesterday and the jetting is correct for the 1972 jetting specs - only think i  had to change was the float level - it was at 15mm and the 1972 spec called for 25mm - it did not change anything as far as starting. 

fuel is new premium grade premixed at 32-1 

I totally agree with the plugs - sometimes NGK's are hard to get at the local auto supply so i may have to try a substitute - who knows maybe this bike will like a champion or autolite 

I also will be doing a compression test - but assuming that it had run before, and it fires now I am hopeful the compression is OK. 

anyway, I am going to give it try and I will update with my results. 

As I am going over all the common items to troubleshoot this bike, I just came across something that maybe something or maybe nothing -

the plugs I got at the local MC shop are NGK BR8ES - this is a resistor plug - value of approx. 5K.

the plug cap is also a resistor device NGKLB05F - value of approx. 5K

I don't know why but something is telling me that it there should be only 1 resistor device not 2 -

The 2 devices which come off the secondary of the coil have cumulative value of over 10K

I am thinking this could comprise the ignition system - I have spark - it appears to be good but is it really?

could my starting and running problem be this easy??

grasping at anything and everything

thanks to all of you once again!