Yes each case is different. As you can imagine, working in a farm bike based shop, axles & swinging arm bolts just 'grow' into place. Shock treatment wins out 99% of the time but became doubly difficult when the s/arm bolt went through the back of the engine, through a steel insert in the case so another place to rust.

As usual, Mark had the winning suggestion. My brother has my dads old Carolina 3ton press. The frame fit (barely) inside it with the swingarm bolt centered on the press. A 4x4 block under the main frame where it drops from the seat area and, after a few pulls on the jack, it popped. Then it was a matter of changing out press rods and it pushed through. The swingarm bolt is undamaged . Hallelujah! Thanks again. Next hurdle will be removing the flywheel. It’s equally stuck. I put huge pressure on the puller and it won’t budge. I don’t want to destroy the end of the crank so I guess I’ll feed it with some penetrating oil for a bit, maybe some heat and try again. The coils look brand new inside it but I’ll need to check the seal and cleanup the points. Always something!

Adguy2112, well done on getting the swingarm spindle out.  Although you didn't use RT325's "set-up" in the old link he attached I can tell you it was something to behold . Anyway the reason I'm chiming in on your thread is because you mentioned about having a stuck flywheel and potentially using heat on it. I'd be reluctant to use heat because you would very likely damage the windings on the coils which are coated with insulating material. Try instead the penetrating fluid and correct threaded puller method. Forgive me if already done but make sure you remove both washers (spring and flat) so that you get lots of thread interaction between puller and flywheel. Finally torque down the puller centre screw real tight and try hitting the end of it to 'shock' the crank/flywheel taper surfaces apart. Good luck with it

Congrats on the bolt removal!  By far my least favorite thing to do. 

Make sure you have a good quality puller and threads in flywheel are engaged fully as already said.  Tighten the push bolt good and tight...  Then if stuck I generally give it a quick zap with a 1/2" drive electric or air impact wrench...  just a rat-a-tat...  I don't keep trying to tighten beyond that. 

If flywheel doesn't pop off, I let it sit with puller tight.  Put a thick blanket, old jacket, or a pillow or something on the ground to cushion the fall. I may have been lucky but by next morning flywheel is always off. I don't ever hit end of puller with a hammer though many do...  It's not hard to knock crank out of true and I don't want to risk that.  (I can't remember seeing a Yamaha manual that recommends smacking end of puller with hammer)

I can't stress enough how important it is to have a good quality puller like the Motion Pro 08-0026.  Cheap pullers can damage flywheel threads and just don't work as well.  I helped a friend that had one of those no name flywheel pullers...  kept tightening and nothing happened.  It didn't feel right when tightening cheap puller.  Used my Motion Pro and flywheel popped right off. 

Push bolt on his puller was stiff after we removed it...  cheap puller threads were deforming before if applied enough pressure to remove flywheel.  Motion Pro puller was only $2 more than the cheap one.

 

Thank you for the tips. I have been using this puller for years and it's never given me problems before. I did run it all the way in (without washers) but I'll take your advice on not using heat. I did give it a few taps but I was equally worried about screwing up the true inside. I'll try the impact hammer method and leaving it tight for the night. I'm guessing a past owner tightened it with air because the crank nut took more force than I've ever experienced to remove. Hopefully, photo uploads will get fixed and I can includes some photos on the project soon.

Flywheel nut sounds like i've tightened it haha. Pics won't load so post #8 in the link.
yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/74-7...-flywheel-nut#151295