I'm putting a 34mm carb on my DT2, was told that I need to change the throttle cable out and that a cable from at DT400 should work, can anyone confirm?  If not what will work?  Thanks for your time and knowledge! 

It depends on the carb you chose, but for my 32mm flat-slide conversion, the cable on the dt3 swapped over without modification.
If anything, you may need to invest in a different carb/cable interface adjuster, but I don't think you'll need a new cable unless you picked a different brand carb.
www.yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/forums/...reet-tracker?start=0

Thanks for the reply.  I was told by the person whom sold me the carb that a throttle cable from an 360 would fit so when I was doing my search for the cable I found out that the cable for the DT2 and the RT's had the same part number so I rolled the dice and gave it a wait and see, the stock DT2 cable fit no problem.  Now I'm having an issue getting this carb tuned correctly.  I had it running ok and thought I was well on my way to getting it tuned but now I've run into an issue with it just not wanting to run at anything over about 1/8th throttle.  I'm going to take a video, was going to today but just didn't feel like the let down after spending so much money on getting it ported, bored and of course the larger carb.  I'm just frustrated with it now...

Good time to step away from it for a while… let the frustration fade.. you’ll get it sorted out. I have faith!
Sneezles61

Thanks Sneezels, that's what I decided to do.  Was going to work on it this morning after the gym but when I got home I made that decision.  Trying to go over things in my head and will probably give it another day or two. 

Trying to understand--or think--why it was running ok & now it won't go over 8th throttle. What happened!! in between. Look forward to the video when you get back to it. Cheers.

Not sure what carb it is but my first thought was float bowl o-ring

Good morning guys, wont be working on the bike today - threw out my back this morning, old Army Parachute injury, anyway after reading Mark T's response I thought - crap, did I misplace the o-ring he mentioned when I change out the main and pilot jets?  I went and found a diagram for my carb, attached, but didn't see an o-ring.

 

My inner couch potato says that your back injury is directly related to going to the gym, Tony!   Anyway, hope it clears up soon. 

The diagram that you posted is for a carb where the main jet is fitted where the setter jet sit would sit, as opposed to in the banjo bolt in the float bowl. There is no 'o' ring fitted to that style of carb (the 'o' ring sits on the setter jet).

Hi Alan, hope all is well on your side of the pond...  There is some truth in what you're saying about going to the gym, I do often have my low back pain after, depends on what muscle group I work but I've been a weight lifter pretty much my whole life and was a personal trainer for a decade so it's ingrained in my little brain.

As for the carb diagram, it is for the exact carb that I now have on my bike.  I was talked into going from a 26mm to this 34mm which has been a real challenge for me, I'm also not convinced that it was the right move.  Before I had the work done, port, bore second over, V-force reeds, UFO and 34mm carb, with the old worn out piston/rings I was able to get the front tire off the ground pretty much all the time (though not very high), in first gear and second gear I could sometimes get the tire off the ground, NOW, no matter how hard I try it just wont happen.  It could be that I just don't have the carb tuned for optimal performance yet but I'm not buying that.  The bike otherwise was running great, starts first kick, idles well but the pilot jet needs to be changed and I think I need to go a bit smaller on main jet still.