Which Motion Pro kit did you order? 

Flywheel does not get removed to check timing. 

For the leak down kit I ordered 08-0071. 

So I can leave the flywheel but will need to pull the head?

Looks like the crank seal is gone. 

Has anyone used these aftermarket crank seals from ebay? After receiving I notice they only have a spring on one side as opposed to a spring on both sides on the OEM version. Really don't want to do it twice.

 

Got to be better than bad seals. I've got some similar but so far not used them so can't say good or bad.
Reminds me, on one of my 360's long gone, someone had made alloy inserts to step it down to more common seals out of a DT360A style seal. Sam shaft size just different OD. Worked good--as it should.

I have one of those aftermarket seals in my 360, no issues there.  I used one in my SC500 motor too but that one did not fare so well. 

Worth a shot I'd say.

The crank seal fixed it right up, purrs like a kitten now. Thanks to everyone who responded. 

Now I have to figure out how to change the shift lever return spring, advice welcome. The lever is lazy, I have to help it up so I can down shift. Hopefully it’s quick and easy I’m ready to ride. 

Purrs like a kitten is good--but should growl like a lion lol. Maybe it's constipated. Na, thats good--success.

based on personal experience I would not use non-SW type (two springs) seals in my DT360.  In my case before I was enlightened by the smart dudes on this site I did and I ended up with a run away insane engine that ran with key off and it was caused by a mag side  non oem single spring seal sucking air.  I am fine with aftermarket seals for everything but the crank.

 

I've seen it mentioned many times to use a double lip seal on the magneto side, but I'm kind of confused about that. I put a set in that has double spring lips for the clutch side (wet on both sides of the seal) but just an internal spring lip on the magneto side. It seems to make sense to me, because on the magneto side the outside portion of the seal is running dry. It seems to me if you have a fragile spring lip on the dry side that it's going to wear quicker than if you have solid rubber, with the spring lip only inside the crankcase, getting lubricated by 2-stroke oil.

Tell me why I'm wrong...