×
Pictures Posting Not Working (12 Jun 2023)
Picture uploads is again unavailable. We are working on the problem. Thanks for your patience.
Makotosun
brakes
- Aubs
- Topic Author
- Offline
- Junior Member
- Posts: 16
- Likes received: 0
brakes was created by Aubs
Hi everyone. My ex USA 1973 DT3 has appaling brakes. I have checked the drums for ovality and tried new shoes from two differemt manufactures. If I apply an emergancy stop at 30 mph I came to a halt in the next county. I can live with a poor rear brake but I wish to have a decent front stopper. I am prepared to buy another wheel but I am asking the forum for the next best step.even if I have have to forget about originality..
Aubs from Wales.
Aubs from Wales.
20 Mar 2021 01:52
#1
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Andy L
- Offline
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 108
- Likes received: 98
Replied by Andy L on topic brakes
Hi Aubs. First up good luck for your guys in todays 6 nations rugby grand slam.
I understand your concerns re: braking performance and offer the following thoughts/ideas in no particular order for you to consider:
1) Are the new shoes good quality items (e.g. EBC). These are for your safety so don't buy cheap stuff.
2) Remember brake shoes need to 'bed in' and lose their surface coating and should improve after a while from new. (I've even heard of people very lightly roughing up the surfaces prior to installation)
2) What condition are the metal 'flat cams' that rotate to force the shoes out. Make sure they are not too worn.
3) ALWAYS try to position the brake actuator arm on to the splined brake shaft so that the brake cable (rod for rear) operates at 90 degrees to the actuator arm. You get more force applied this way.
4) Use a good quality brake cable so it doesn't stretch and allow the brake lever to contact the handlebar.
5) Typically manuals say 2-3mm 'play' on the front brake lever. What you actually want is the absolute min play (1mm?) BUT not at the expense of 'rubbing' because that would lead to undesirable heat.
6) Contamination of drum surfaces. I use brake cleaner initially and then finish off wiping with a surface contact cleaning cloth.
Finally we've all been spoilt by and got used to modern day brake performance via disc and servo assisted combinations etc. We have to be realistic regarding ageing technology especially when it's being used on MX motorcycles with such small braking surfaces. Remember the very old road racing m/cycles and cars too that had huge brake drums to give more brake pad area, not to mention air scoops to try and dissipate heat. Have I started ramblin....Zzz
This image is hidden for guests.
I understand your concerns re: braking performance and offer the following thoughts/ideas in no particular order for you to consider:
1) Are the new shoes good quality items (e.g. EBC). These are for your safety so don't buy cheap stuff.
2) Remember brake shoes need to 'bed in' and lose their surface coating and should improve after a while from new. (I've even heard of people very lightly roughing up the surfaces prior to installation)
2) What condition are the metal 'flat cams' that rotate to force the shoes out. Make sure they are not too worn.
3) ALWAYS try to position the brake actuator arm on to the splined brake shaft so that the brake cable (rod for rear) operates at 90 degrees to the actuator arm. You get more force applied this way.
4) Use a good quality brake cable so it doesn't stretch and allow the brake lever to contact the handlebar.
5) Typically manuals say 2-3mm 'play' on the front brake lever. What you actually want is the absolute min play (1mm?) BUT not at the expense of 'rubbing' because that would lead to undesirable heat.
6) Contamination of drum surfaces. I use brake cleaner initially and then finish off wiping with a surface contact cleaning cloth.
Finally we've all been spoilt by and got used to modern day brake performance via disc and servo assisted combinations etc. We have to be realistic regarding ageing technology especially when it's being used on MX motorcycles with such small braking surfaces. Remember the very old road racing m/cycles and cars too that had huge brake drums to give more brake pad area, not to mention air scoops to try and dissipate heat. Have I started ramblin....Zzz
This image is hidden for guests.
Please log in or register to see it.
20 Mar 2021 03:48
#2
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Swoop56
- Offline
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 1121
- Likes received: 697
Replied by Swoop56 on topic brakes
When I first got my DT1 going , I was similarly horrified at the lack
of a front brake . I had a few hairy moments along the way .
After a while , as they bedded in , things improved markedly .
I was using Premier brand shoes , which I was told , were a
subsidery of EBC .
Many of the guys here use genuine Yamaha shoes .
The part numbers have been superceded , so unfortunately I
can't give you the current OEM number , but i'm sure someone
else will be able to help with that , if needed .
of a front brake . I had a few hairy moments along the way .
After a while , as they bedded in , things improved markedly .
I was using Premier brand shoes , which I was told , were a
subsidery of EBC .
Many of the guys here use genuine Yamaha shoes .
The part numbers have been superceded , so unfortunately I
can't give you the current OEM number , but i'm sure someone
else will be able to help with that , if needed .
20 Mar 2021 04:06
#3
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- 1971DT250
- Offline
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 1311
- Likes received: 1059
Replied by 1971DT250 on topic brakes
Rendering Error in layout Message/Item: fopen(http://open.api.ebay.com/shopping?callname=GetSingleItem&appid=makotosu-08bc-47da-8e7d-68e3ee6e51ca&siteid=0&responseencoding=JSON&ItemID=372750581208&version=889&trackingid=&trackingpartnercode=9): failed to open stream: Connection refused. Please enable debug mode for more information.
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Pete-RT1
- Offline
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 932
- Likes received: 1304
Replied by Pete-RT1 on topic brakes
Aubs, it's just the early Yamaha ABS system
This image is hidden for guests.
They can take a while to bed in.
I replaced the ones on my RT1 and now after a few miles they're actually pretty good.
This image is hidden for guests.
Please log in or register to see it.
They can take a while to bed in.
I replaced the ones on my RT1 and now after a few miles they're actually pretty good.
Yamaha CT1-B
Yamaha CT1-C
Yamaha AT1-E
Yamaha AT1-C
Yamaha CT3
1978 Yamaha DT175MX
2020 Honda CB500X
Yamaha CT1-C
Yamaha AT1-E
Yamaha AT1-C
Yamaha CT3
1978 Yamaha DT175MX
2020 Honda CB500X
The following user(s) Liked this Post: 1971DT250, Andy L
20 Mar 2021 06:59
#5
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- MarkT
- Offline
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 13524
- Likes received: 9371
Replied by MarkT on topic brakes
Yamaha shoes are better than EBC in my experience.
1963 YG1-T, 1965 MG1-T, Allstate 250, 1970 CT1b, 1971 R5, 1973 AT3MX, 1974 TS400L, 1975 RD350, 1976 DT175C, 1976 Husqvarna 250CR, 1981 DT175G, 1988 DT50, 1990 "Super" DT50, 1991 RT180, 2017 XT250
20 Mar 2021 07:47
#6
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- MACE6772
- Offline
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 206
- Likes received: 150
Replied by MACE6772 on topic brakes
I also remove the lever to make sure the hole is not worn out of round on the lever or the perch and check for wear on the collar and bolt. Everything square and straight. My 2 cents
76 Dt 125 75 Dt 175 75 Dt 250 75 Dt 400 09 FZ6R
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Yamadude
- Offline
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 116
- Likes received: 55
Replied by Yamadude on topic brakes
Darn, I wanted to add my 2 cents to this discussion, but all of the pertinent issues seem to have been covered already.
There's an amazing amount of technical expertise at this forum.
There's an amazing amount of technical expertise at this forum.
You can just call me Dude.
Syracuse, New York
Current bikes: 1973 DT3, 1974 TY250, 1969 Triumph Bonneville, 1975 XS650, 1976 XS650, 1982 XS650, 1983 XS650, 2006 FJR1300
Syracuse, New York
Current bikes: 1973 DT3, 1974 TY250, 1969 Triumph Bonneville, 1975 XS650, 1976 XS650, 1982 XS650, 1983 XS650, 2006 FJR1300
The following user(s) Liked this Post: Rick C.
20 Mar 2021 14:56
#8
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Aubs
- Topic Author
- Offline
- Junior Member
- Posts: 16
- Likes received: 0
Replied by Aubs on topic brakes
Nice reply Andy will start with new cable.. Cheers buddy.
21 Mar 2021 01:59
#9
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- Swoop56
- Offline
- Site Supporter
- Posts: 1121
- Likes received: 697
Replied by Swoop56 on topic brakes
With my DT1 , I had a new cable with my new shoes .
Despite all that , they felt really spongy for quite some time .
Try a new cable by all means , but don't expect too much
and you won't get too disappointed , as they say .
Miles under the belt , is probably the best cure .
Despite all that , they felt really spongy for quite some time .
Try a new cable by all means , but don't expect too much
and you won't get too disappointed , as they say .
Miles under the belt , is probably the best cure .
21 Mar 2021 12:45
#10
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Moderators: yamadmin, Makotosun, DEET, Vinnie, James Hart