Hi Everyone, Slowly rebuilding my RT3 engine, bought a set of points from YAMBITS local to me in UK. When I have tryed to set the timing I am setting the points to start to open at 2.9 mm btdc ( as the book), but when at tdc points gap is max 7 thou not 12-15  as book. Question is do you just have opening set correctly and live with  7 thou or what.???. Could I have dodgy points, or is this normal.  Also I am looking for someone who knows how to renew the ignition switch wires as they are in a bit of a state, so if anyone in the UK can recomend someone it would be much appriecated.  Thanks  Alan.

Personally, I wouldn't buy new points or condensers from Yambits, I would look for new old stock (nos) original parts, or trusted pattern, like Daiichi. You might even get lucky with good used (look for the manufacturer's logo on them).

1. Most important thing is points open with piston correct distance BTDC.

2. Points gap is not checked "at TDC".  Rotate flywheel while watching gap. Measure gap when points are open the maximum.  Gap should be within range of spec.

interesting topic that i am benefiting from
I just got done setting the timing up properly on my DT1E and found  the max gap was smaller than spec when the timing.  Mark - is this indicative of a worn cam follower on the points, which I assumed it is, which is why I ordered a new NOS set of points?

Just wondering if you have it at 3.2 btdc & what the max gap 'is'. New points is a good idea though at any time. Think i put new ones in my DT1 in 1980--just saying lol.

Possibly.  On some models they have a slotted stator plate.  If someone has moved the stator from the original position, you can also have a gap issue. 

Often and hopefully you can see where the screws were originally tightened down and put the stator back there...  and then of course you have to set timing again.    If you can't tell where stator belongs, it should be close to center of slots. 

First step is new points as that's the most likely.  If you have quality new points installed, then you may need to rotate the stator a little to get gap in spec but usually if centered or close to centered this is not an issue. 

One caution to the cheap bastards out there (like me) who decide that instead of replacing the points you can keep rotating the stator to get the points gap back in spec...  I'd say you can do that BUT the relationship between the magnets and the coils right when the point open is critical.  If that relationship changes too much the spark will weaken or completely go away.  Just change the points. 

thanks Mark
My stator is fixed, holes vs slotted, so the only variable at hand short of a new statror is the following block on the points
but I do know that I have the timing right and spark
I ordered a NOS Daiichi set and will put these in once I get it started
I love this DT1E, I think this might be the model I wreck my Freshman year of HS.  it was definitely rode or raced very hard, but my hope is that i can get it as close to stock as a spray can allows.  The cylinder was ported which will be interesting and the spokes tied with safety wire and all the turn signals removed which is why I think it was raced. 
will post some before and after pics soon 
 

Sorry, i'd better check as don't think i'm answerig the original poster & looks like there's two going. Think i said 3.2btdc but was in relation to the DT1. RT2 timing is of course 2.9.

sorry if I came across rudely in any way, that was not my intent, this online stuff is new to me

Not rude at all! 

It is instinctive to join an existing thread if you have a very similar problem. However, if you have a different bike, and to save confusion, it's probably safest to start a new thread.