These were :

1. Alum Oxide blasted. Clamps removed and polished.
2. File to remove sharp spots
3. Using high speed dremel barrel tool with fine grit, ground vertically. It the easiest way to sweep the face smoothly.
4. 6" rough alum oxide wheel
5. Will bake 30 min to remove oil
6. bake another ~10 w/powder coat.



Trying different techniques to cleaning these. The ones on the far left and right were very pitted to start with. Two of them will be gloss black powder coat and one of them cleared. Will post the after pics when done.



Close-up of one on far right. More work to do here, but interesting results.



Front:


Back:




Final Product:

Starting to look at the engine. Do plan a complete disassembly and inspection. Still working on other things, but looking at piston and cylinder tonight. They don't look bad. Guess I should go first over?

Anyone have dimensions on pistons/cylinders, etc? service manual n/a at this time online.

Our fearless leader is working on the "page 2" of the Service Manuals not working...

In the meantime, try this link as a workaround.

yamaha-enduros.com/index.php/workshop/service-manuals?start=21

Just a quick look, but looks like a stock piston about 80mm.

I found a 1st over OEM piston and rings!

few pics of the rear fender before and after.  as soon as my DC Plastics front fender arrives, I can pop a top on the 2k clear and get them both finished. 
looks like some filler in some of the holes...

beginning of metal work/body filler.






waiting for paint...




 

Fuel tank not as bad as it looks. the inside is actually very clean.

looks like the letters were crooked from the factory.   need to make a template to get this right on application of the new decals.












Top left qtr near seat test painted using MDScott's same paint; Sierra Pine.  Note, the paint within the Yamaha circle on left side was not painted.  Paint
looks pretty much dead on less oxidation,etc.

piston and cylinder look decent
Does bottom end, wrist pin/brg seem tight?
what's the ring gap?
if it is in spec (not likely) or just slighly over, then you could probably give it a hone and get the gap into spec with stock rings.
I had to go OS with my Xmas meltdown to clean up some scratches and ended up spending a almost 200 euros at CMSNL

ps. i have a matching gas tank, same dents!

ps. I would definitely change the crank seals, making sure to use the ones with the two garter springs, not the transmission seals that I unknowlingly was sold by a certain scavenging bird on ebay before learning more about proper seals and pressure testing on this site

going to restore the engine, bearings, seals, all.  transmission seals?   ok, who was that?