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74 DT360
- dart451
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74 DT360 was created by dart451
Well, I believe I have come to the end of my road. I've messed with this bike for months, new carb, new throttle cable, new rings, guess I don't know what I'm doing! I'm going to sell the bike, got it running yesterday and took it for a ride, seems the gas tank isn't venting properly or whatever...runs out of gas, release tank filler and it goes woosh! And it's hard to start...getting too old for this. Would you all suggest I sell in on the Market Place here on this site or perhaps Motorcycle Trader? Thank you for all your help...
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01 Mar 2026 09:02
#1
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- pabdt
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Replied by pabdt on topic 74 DT360
I've had exactly the same problem on my 360. Try pulling the fuel cap and clean it or at least blow through the vent hole w/air gun. There are kits to rebuild that cap, so you can clean it up. Ultrasonic can help too. Don't lose that little clip that holds cap on. Use a magnet to catch it on disassembly.
If you are willing, send a message for your location. ~may be interested in bike. . Trust me when I say, I've had my shares of tuning mine. haha. There must be a reason its a 1 year bike.
I do think you can get it going though...
If you are willing, send a message for your location. ~may be interested in bike. . Trust me when I say, I've had my shares of tuning mine. haha. There must be a reason its a 1 year bike.
I do think you can get it going though...
________________________________________________
1969 Yamaha CT1 175
1974 Yamaha DT125A
1974 Yamaha DT360A with SP96 Exhaust
Next…196x-197x Yamaha something.
1969 Yamaha CT1 175
1974 Yamaha DT125A
1974 Yamaha DT360A with SP96 Exhaust
Next…196x-197x Yamaha something.
01 Mar 2026 12:30
#2
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- Snglsmkr
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Replied by Snglsmkr on topic 74 DT360
If this was a case of "jack up gas cap, install on new bike" the problem would still exist.
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I've experienced this on my DT360A as well. The cap has an indirect path for venting to prevent splashed fuel from escaping easily. In my case the problem manifested itself on my first long road ride. I filled the tank at a gas station and within a couple of miles I noticed the engine "leaning out" and then it quit. It was easy enough to do a roadside repair by disassembling the innards of the cap and clearing the vent path of debris from a prior tank derusting event.
As far as ease of starting I did not find the bike hard to start. The automatic decompression worked well and the stock CDI sprarked reliably. I did find early on that the resistor in the spark plug cap had failed. I replaced it with a solid rod (zero ohms) cut from the center electrode connection of an old spark plug and started using the easier to find resistor spark plugs.
It took me a while to learn that when the motor had cooled off partially, it took less kicks when the enriching jet circuit was opened ("choke" on). Early on I was afraid of fouling the plug with fuel but learned that the engine was tolerant and I was being overly cautious.
It seems you've put a lot of effort into the bike. It would be ashamed to give up when you may be so close.
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I've experienced this on my DT360A as well. The cap has an indirect path for venting to prevent splashed fuel from escaping easily. In my case the problem manifested itself on my first long road ride. I filled the tank at a gas station and within a couple of miles I noticed the engine "leaning out" and then it quit. It was easy enough to do a roadside repair by disassembling the innards of the cap and clearing the vent path of debris from a prior tank derusting event.
As far as ease of starting I did not find the bike hard to start. The automatic decompression worked well and the stock CDI sprarked reliably. I did find early on that the resistor in the spark plug cap had failed. I replaced it with a solid rod (zero ohms) cut from the center electrode connection of an old spark plug and started using the easier to find resistor spark plugs.
It took me a while to learn that when the motor had cooled off partially, it took less kicks when the enriching jet circuit was opened ("choke" on). Early on I was afraid of fouling the plug with fuel but learned that the engine was tolerant and I was being overly cautious.
It seems you've put a lot of effort into the bike. It would be ashamed to give up when you may be so close.
01 Mar 2026 14:42
#3
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- dart451
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Replied by dart451 on topic 74 DT360
Well, ok...you all convinced me to try once again. I think I get tired cause kick starting the bike takes a lot out of me. I'm 77. I'll remove the gas cap, take it apart and see if I can get it going again. I think it's so hard to start because it's just not getting gas. After I put on the new carburetor, I kicked it till I was blue in the face...pulled a plug and it was as dry as a bone! Oh, and this is probably a stupid question but...is the bike choked with the lever down or up? I figured it was down for choke but, it didn't seem to make much difference...in fact, on my ride back I had to push the choke down to keep the bike running...
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01 Mar 2026 16:05
#4
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- pabdt
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Replied by pabdt on topic 74 DT360
down is "choke" or enrichment.
* almost forgot, inside the venturi between the slide and engine, on bottom, near slide is a hole. It is small. blow it out from the engine side
with carb off of bike. This where the idle mix is delivered to the venturi airflow to engine.
* the inlet where the fuel goes in the carb and ports to the inlet valve. that path gets blocked. that bend at the inlet valve can be a trouble spot.
* vent issue already discussed. lol, just went for a ride. blew mine gently with air tool.
* float height correct and put in correctly. If you put them upside down, it will not fill the bowl with fuel. Yes, I've done it...and recently.
* the o-ring, but usually under throttle makes things rich.
* #3 position on needle is stock
* is that idle jet clean?
* 1&1/2 turns air screw; starting point.
* the cup on the tank fuel valve and the ACTUAL inlets inside that valve. the entire part can get clogged up. I've had it happen. You can verify fuel flow with carb disconnected from fuel supply and dump it to a cannister.
You may have fuel, but that big 360 is hungry. If flow is weak from tank..watchout.
other:
blocked exhaust
air leaks.
* almost forgot, inside the venturi between the slide and engine, on bottom, near slide is a hole. It is small. blow it out from the engine side
with carb off of bike. This where the idle mix is delivered to the venturi airflow to engine.
* the inlet where the fuel goes in the carb and ports to the inlet valve. that path gets blocked. that bend at the inlet valve can be a trouble spot.
* vent issue already discussed. lol, just went for a ride. blew mine gently with air tool.
* float height correct and put in correctly. If you put them upside down, it will not fill the bowl with fuel. Yes, I've done it...and recently.
* the o-ring, but usually under throttle makes things rich.
* #3 position on needle is stock
* is that idle jet clean?
* 1&1/2 turns air screw; starting point.
* the cup on the tank fuel valve and the ACTUAL inlets inside that valve. the entire part can get clogged up. I've had it happen. You can verify fuel flow with carb disconnected from fuel supply and dump it to a cannister.
You may have fuel, but that big 360 is hungry. If flow is weak from tank..watchout.
other:
blocked exhaust
air leaks.
________________________________________________
1969 Yamaha CT1 175
1974 Yamaha DT125A
1974 Yamaha DT360A with SP96 Exhaust
Next…196x-197x Yamaha something.
1969 Yamaha CT1 175
1974 Yamaha DT125A
1974 Yamaha DT360A with SP96 Exhaust
Next…196x-197x Yamaha something.
The following user(s) Liked this Post: Snglsmkr, Schu
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- porschedude996tt
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Replied by porschedude996tt on topic 74 DT360
What are you asking for it?
01 Mar 2026 17:39
#6
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- pabdt
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Replied by pabdt on topic 74 DT360
________________________________________________
1969 Yamaha CT1 175
1974 Yamaha DT125A
1974 Yamaha DT360A with SP96 Exhaust
Next…196x-197x Yamaha something.
1969 Yamaha CT1 175
1974 Yamaha DT125A
1974 Yamaha DT360A with SP96 Exhaust
Next…196x-197x Yamaha something.
01 Mar 2026 18:23
#7
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- Schu
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Replied by Schu on topic 74 DT360
Try holding your throttle wide open as you kick it over. I have two DT360As and one of them was always harder to start than the other. One time assumed it was flooded so I twisted the throttle wide open and held it there as I kicked and it roared to life. I now start that bike holding full throttle right from the first initial kick and it starts quite easily. I’m sure that’s a clue to an issue that someone who truly knows carburetors would say “you need to wah wah wah”. But everything else seems to be fine with that bike so I haven’t messed with it.
Schu
CT1B, CT1C, JT1, JT2, CT2, RT3, DT360A, GT80B, DT100B, DT125B, DT175B, DT175C, DT250B, DT400B, Z50
Someday, you'll own some Yamahas
CT1B, CT1C, JT1, JT2, CT2, RT3, DT360A, GT80B, DT100B, DT125B, DT175B, DT175C, DT250B, DT400B, Z50
Someday, you'll own some Yamahas
The following user(s) Liked this Post: Snglsmkr, pabdt
02 Mar 2026 08:11
#8
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- dart451
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Replied by dart451 on topic 74 DT360
Gonna hold off for right now selling the bike. I did remove the tank cap and discovered that the little channel that vents the cap was completely full of rust! I had to take it completely apart to clean out the rust and I'm just waiting for the RTV to dry on the gasket that covers the channel so the positioning doesn't change on the venting. I'll put it back together later this afternoon.
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02 Mar 2026 10:25
#9
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- dart451
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Replied by dart451 on topic 74 DT360
I'll try holding the throttle all the way next time I try to start the bike. I believe, seeing as the tank vent was completely plugged up is why I wasn't getting gas to the engine...we'll see...
The following user(s) Liked this Post: MarkT, Snglsmkr, pabdt, Ht1kid, Tinker man
02 Mar 2026 10:27
#10
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