Love it Tom !!!!
Run it !!

Hey Tom . . . .  Just a little heads up

When you get around to changing the plates and oil, make sure you use an oil that is rated for wet clutches.
Most automotive engine oils have too many friction modifiers in them, and may cause ongoing problems for you.
Look for oils that have the "JASO MA",  "MA1", or "MA2" rating. 
The "MB" rating will work as well.

Good Luck,  

Thanks for the heads up Enduronut. I've been using, Yamalube 20w-40. It says it's good for wet clutches, but it's a bit expensive for one quart.

www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005BH9OB8?psc=1&...pop_mob_b_asin_title

It looks like my new springs and clutch plates are going to arrive today. I didn't realize it when I ordered them, but the ebay clutch plates are coming from a city only about 30 miles away.

So from reading threads etc, the procedure as I understand it is to let the new friction plates soak in oil for at least a couple hours, put fiber in first, end up with steel, and leave the rubber O-rings out, correct?

When using aftermarket plates , check the thickness matches stock specs .
Some aftermarket plates have proven to be thinner than stock , which can result
in a thinner clutch pack , with consequently less spring pressure on the plates .

I got the new friction plates and springs installed, and it's working beautifully!

It turns out the old springs were close to 1 mm under spec, and the old plates measured about 3.75 mm average, and were super slick. The new plates all measured around 3.98 mm, and after I put them in, it took a lot of turns to get the push rod adjustment into the correct position.

Really wasn't a very hard job, except that when I removed the case I accidentally knocked the kick starter spring off of its post without realizing it. I already had the case back on with oil in it, and that's when I put the kickstarter arm on and realized the spring was loose.

Drained the oil, removed the case, and was able to get it in place using some baling wire fished up from underneath to pull it down, and needle nose pliers to get it on the post. At first I thought I was going to have to remove the clutch basket, but it's doable with it in place. So just a warning to check that spring and make sure you didn't knock it off to the post before you put it back together.

By the way, also make sure the steel washer is on the nylon gear on the front, it always falls off when you remove the case. I'd learned that previously.

Thats good she's up & running. & this'll sound smart arse but anyway--too important to worry. You say lots of turns of the adjuter so [smart arse bit] i hope you've not dropped the ball bearing from between pushrod & the mushroom bit. I'm only saying that because 5 plates x 1/4 of a millimeter difference on each only makes 1.25mm which isn't a hell of a lot but you say had to turn adjuster in a lot of turns. I hope it only seemed a lot of turns but not in reality. Think i'll get some of those plates for my AT1.

It's all relative. When I said "a lot of turns", in reality it was less than a quarter inch of movement. However the clutch lever was completely slack once I had the new plates installed. No danger of that ball bearing falling out though.

I'm impressed with this eBay seller.They estimated delivery by next Wednesday, and they showed up yesterday, Saturday. They ship from Walnut California, and Kentucky as well.

Only $14.39 with free shipping.

Xttps://www.ebay.com/itm/184969870432?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3De478a95eef7249d59e6b8b850fa0abca%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26sd%3D184810850344%26itm%3D184969870432%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ae108cdf9-be59-11ec-ab5e-2e9712af281a%7Cparentrq%3A37e7c4e71800a7b11b05d934fffbfcba%7Ciid%3A1

RT325.....Thank you for the advice on the 0-ring........ I was having the same issue and the new o-ring solved it.

Cheers Quatermaster35. Would be the most annoying problem with those types of carburettors & easily overlooked.