Oh man sorry to hear about that bike! Happy you found a new one! I just finished with a tank clean. I used vinegar and then did a gasoline rinse and then sprayed fogging oil in to prevent flash rusting as I cant fill it with gas until my new petcock arrives. Now it's time to ultrasonic clean the carb and then clean everything up. The wiring is kind of a mess so I need to sort that out. The battery wires seem to be cut out too haha..

I agree with the above statement about "in line fuel filters".. Try find just any old product to fit our old friends... Cheap insurance..
Sneezles61

I'm hoping this post goes through, the past three did not. I've actually got the tank pretty clean now, and I've ordered a new petcock that goes to the Big Bear ATV and others. I also have new fuel line and inline fuel filters.

Well, I got the inside of my tank about as clean as it's going to get. I threw everything in the garage at it, first using vinegar, then carburetor cleaners, and in the end Berryman B12 really worked wonders. I sprayed that in and let it coat the entire tank, and after a while I'd take it outside and pressure wash the inside. I did this over and over and over. It literally had a quarter inch of hard black gunk on the bottom and part of the sides, and that's all gone now.

I rinsed it out with dish soap and water, then plain water with the pressure washer again, then made sure it was completely dry, carefully using a heat gun. Then I sprayed WD-40 inside and made sure the entire tank is coated, and it seems to be fine now. 

However the original petcock is shot, but I'd already ordered a generic one off Amazon for $10. It has a quarter inch barb coming off it, so I picked up some quarter inch fuel line, put an inline filter on it, and was able to get the other end of the quarter inch tubing over the 5/16" barb on the carburetor.

 I found that a number 3 Phillips screwdriver is exactly the same size as a 5/16" barb,  so I heated up the tubing with boiling water, then inserted the number 3 Phillips screwdriver about a half-inch, and let it sit for a while. Then put it under hot water again, and took it over to the carburetor and was able to get it on, then used a worm drive clamp.

Now I need to drain the autolube tank of twenty-year-old 2 stroke oil, put some fresh in, and it'll be about ready to try to start!
 

Well I got the autolube tank refreshed with new fluid and this thing started up on the third kick! It seems like the autolube is working because there's some smoke coming out, not a lot, but about normal.

Initially the clutch was stuck, but I let it warm up, then I revved the engine as I put it down into first gear and it broke loose. Took it around the block, and it's the first time I've ridden this motorcycle in over 20 years!

Dumb question though, is the choke engaged when the lever is up or down? I keep seeing conflicting information on the internet, and I can't remember. It runs great with the lever up, and when it's warmed up if I push the lever down it dies. I took a look at the autolube pump, and it looks brand new, there was no leakage at all.

 

Lever down is choke on.

Another note of importance is if you flushed your autolube tank and/or the autolube lines you need to bleed the pump, this is accomplished by loosening the phillips head screw with the red washer behind it, once you see a steady flow of oil coming out of the screw tighten the screw and you will be good to go, this is done with the engine not running. Your service manual has the procedure to verify the autolube pump is indeed functioning properly, whenever I am not sure of a bikes autolube pump I run premix in the tank until the pump is verified to be functioning properly.

I’m so jealous!
I’ve got a long way to go on mine…

Be careful [too late now] reving it & popping into gear as could damage or break a tooth off or worse. Best to roll forward & pop in gear then go for a ride. Anyway--done now & it worked so wasn't stuck too bad. Love CT1's. I had an MX175 pipe on mine & man did that get it going. MX pipe was a through the frame type so had to alter it to fit but overall pipe length was still about same as it came out of the box. I miss those days of redundant stock items--just about caused fights at work haha when the list arrived in the mail.

I really appreciate all the replies, and I didn't mean to hijack this thread from the OP, but after all, we are all doing the same thing basically, trying to restore an CT1 Enduro.

Well the first time I rode it around the block, it ran great. I brought it home, and was starting it up again and it started running sort of funny, and I took it for another ride and it was very erratic and started smoking gray. I almost ended up walking it home, but then it started up, but ran very erratically, then would stall easily unless I kept goosing it. Now it just bogs down when I hit the throttle.

From everything I've read online, I probably have some bad crankshaft seals, and that would not be a surprise. In fact I checked the oil and I did lose some transmission oil, and the spark plug is fouling very quickly and turning black.

I've been researching how to replace those seals, and it doesn't look too difficult. In fact I rummaged in my toolbox, and many many (many) years ago I actually bought a flywheel puller for my other CT1 (the one I rode into the ground). I think I bought it to adjust the points.

By the way, I did not flush the autolube tank or line, because the fluid looked fine. I just removed the tank, and let it drain completely, and replaced it with fresh fluid. In fact I was talking to a neighbor that works on motorcycles, and he suggested I probably could have just driven with the old fluid. I just changed it because I'd read elsewhere that 2-stroke fluid really isn't good for more than 5 years or so.

I also thought that pushing down on the choke lever was on and lifting up was off, but that's another point where I've recently read both ways. Having not ridden a CT1 in couple decades, a lot of things are coming back to me now that I'd forgotten. I kind of felt like a kid again riding it!