Hey guys been a while, been cold, but spring is a comin'
just wanted to ask if this is 'the usual' for this bike
oil dribbles out the back of the pipe and rolls down and then drops onto the chain guard 
sould I just live with this or is this a sign that an adjustment is due,
cheers for your input as always
 

Getting cold here in nz lately but winter is a few months away yet. With you oily pipe issue in my opinion the best way is to get the pipe burnt out. Maybe not burnt to a crisp if it's been running ok but heated enough to burn off the oil. If that's an alloy muffler on the end you might need to wash it out then lightly burn off the residue. Only other alternative is a 100 mile ride at highway speed & hope the feds don't sting you for pollution. I doubt the oil ump is the issue but check it of course. More likely caused by a lifetime of less than ideal running before you bought it. On second thought, or was it third thought, if it sat for a very long time has it emptied the oil tank into the crank & now your see the result of it getting fired through the pipe. So a lot of hot air from me but not very helpful sorry i'm falling asleep lol. See what other suggest. Oh, be sure the pump cable is operating freely & returning as it should.

Checking pump output is never a bad idea...  sometimes they seem to come shimmed "rich" at idle.

(TL/DR : RTFM. LOL)

Far more common to see is that the oil pump marks on the pump are aligned with the throttle released...  seems to be correct to most people.  What they don't realize is you MUST rotate the throttle slightly to take up the slack in the throttle cable! 

This means the bike must be running and idle speed screw set first.  Now you rotate the throttle gently to the point where the throttle cable slack is removed and slide lifts if you rotate throttle any farther....  NOW you hold the throttle there and look at the oil pump markings and adjust the oil pump cable to align the marks. 

Almost every bike I've checked with "excess oil" issues has a ton of slack in the throttle cable...  with the oil pump marks lined up when throttle is fully released.  So now you twist the throttle to go and the oil pump pulley rotates way past the marks before the engine even comes off idle! 

Another potential cause is using a "fancy" modern oil designed to be run at lean oil mixtures like 50:1 or 100:1.  Those oils often won't burn off properly when used in the autolube...  basic garden variety mineral injector oil designed for 20:1 premix ratios seems to work best for me.

Wow, lots of info here thanks guys I did a long big pipe burn before reinstalling the pipe (usual issue with old used 2 strokes) . But the bike did sit for a long while and that is a possibility. Will also take a look at the pump alignment. Thanks

Pump looks in good condition. Specs checked all match up. I get what the manual is saying about slack. A few more ride outs and lets see if the problem gets better or worse or same and then time to think again.
gap at the pump is .20 - .25 mm , its small but you can also pretty much eyeball it as you watch it bobbing in and out
kind of fun to get the bike to stop 'just' at the right moment!

As you noted the 'box' mark is for DT125 the 'dot' mark is for 175

Video for an RX100 covering just about everything